2023 Tenuta delle Terre Nere Rosso Calderara Sottana
2023 Tenuta delle Terre Nere Rosso Calderara Sottana

2023 Tenuta delle Terre Nere Rosso Calderara Sottana

96 pts
Tenuta delle Terre |Sicily |Nerello Mascalese
Old-vine Nerello Mascalese from Etna’s black rock heartland – refined, textural and pure Marco de Grazia magic.
Price:
$159.00
Stock:
Sold out
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Description

Calderara Sottana is one of the standout crus on Etna’s northern slope – a jumble of black volcanic rock, pumice and ancient vines that somehow manages to grow wines of real finesse. Marco de Grazia has been working this site for years, and it’s easy to see why he calls it one of his favourites. The vines here dig straight into crumbled lava, producing fruit that’s naturally intense but beautifully balanced.

The 2023 vintage was cooler and slower than recent years, which suited Etna perfectly. Hand-picked fruit, wild ferment, gentle handling, and ageing in old oak – nothing added, nothing rushed.

The wine has that classic Calderara signature: red cherry, blood orange, smoke and mineral grip, all framed by fine, mouth-coating tannins. It feels calm and composed but still full of energy, like it’s holding something back for later. If you’ve ever wondered why people get obsessed with Etna, this is the place to start.

"Terre Nere’s wines all possessed unbelievable freshness and complexity as well as huge perfumes that suggested Pinot Noir…These wines are astonishingly complex and ethereal efforts from the hillsides of Mt. Etna in Sicily."
- Robert Parker

James Suckling

James Suckling

James Suckling 94 Points

This has an open-knit style, showing ripe red-cherry jelly and smoky complexity, crisp acidity and firm, grainy tannins. Medium- to full-bodied with an austere finish. It deserves time for softening and better integration. Try from 2027.

Eric Guido

Vinous 96 Points

The 2023 Etna Rosso Calderara Sottana is dreamy, with a perfumed bouquet of rose, violet, smoke and sour citrus. This is wildly energetic and spry, with crisp red berry fruits and crunchy mineral tones that create an amazing tactile feel as sweet spice tones resonate throughout. The 2023 closes down hard through the finish, as expected in its youthful state. A saturation of crushed wild blueberry and lavender fades slowly.

This vineyard is all rock, specifically volcanic pumice, and sits at 600-700m asl in the region of Randazzo. This pumice attracts heat during the day and then emits it to the roots overnight. This is the steepest, hardest, rockiest vineyard and vines are between 50 and 100 years old. Only 3 vineyards on the northern side of the volcano have pure ancient volcanic soils, Bocca D’Orzo, San Lorenzo and Calderara Sottana. Though young by geological standards, this is the oldest type of soil where it is possible to plant in the entire appellation. Wine produced from these soils contain the widest spectrum of flavours, aromas and nuances and can be both aromatic and austere at the same time.

"Leave it to Marco de Grazia of Tenuta delle Terre Nere to take what many consider a difficult, lower-quality vintage and turn out a lineup of wines that exceeded expectations—and left this taster in awe. Interestingly, when I asked many producers how they adapted their winemaking in a challenging year like 2023, the most common answer was: “We didn’t change anything.” That’s a disappointing reality at many estates, but not here. De Grazia described 2023 as the most difficult vintage he’s experienced on Etna. Spring rains totalling around 400 millimetres triggered a devastating outbreak of downy mildew, cutting yields by up to 70% on the northern slopes. The eastern side was largely spared, which helps explain the strength of Terre Nere’s whites. The wet spring gave way to a hot, drought-stricken summer, leading to thicker skins and uneven ripening, as many vines shut down under hydric stress. Fortunately, light rains in September and ideal conditions through October helped save the harvest. The team responded with intense selection in both vineyard and cellar, followed by shorter macerations and minimal pump overs. The resulting 2023s in bottle are some of the most exotic, finessed and elegant wines Terre Nere has ever produced. They deliver immense pleasure, but in some cases, such as the San Lorenzo, they reach a new level of depth and texture."
- From An Eruption of Fine Wine on Mount Etna (May 2025) by Eric Guido

Price Bracket $101 and Above
Type Red
Body Medium Bodied
Variety Nerello Mascalese
Country Italy
Region Sicily
Reviewed By James Suckling
Vinous
Critic Score 96
Size 750ml
Vintage 2023
Closure Cork

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