2023 Vasse Felix Chardonnay

95 pts
A sharp, textural Chardonnay that captures the balance and character of Margaret River, built for both easy drinking and the long haul.

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Description

Vasse Felix has been nailing Margaret River Chardonnay since 1967, and this 2023 release is right on the money. Hand-picked fruit, wild fermentation in French oak, and nine months on lees give it depth without overcomplicating things. It’s polished but relaxed, just like the region itself.

It’s all about purity and texture - bright citrus and stone fruit with a subtle edge of flint, balanced by a savoury, mineral finish. There’s weight, but it’s clean and focused, with just enough oak influence to add shape without getting in the way.

It’s drinking beautifully now but has the bones to age for a few years if you like your Chardonnay with a bit more maturity. Either way, it’s classic, reliable, and effortlessly good.

95 points
"It has delicious leesy/smoky/flavours. It’s a lovely drink and there's no need to wait to drink it."
- Jane Faulkner (Halliday Wine Companion)

Jane Faulkner

Jane Faulkner

Halliday Wine Companion 95 Points

If this chardy were in a rock band, it would be more than a backup singer to the lead vocals of Heytesbury – it would also belt out a few solos. It has its own voice. A little fleshier with white stone fruit but, of course, it comes with grapefruit and ginger flowers, fennel fronds, some neat phenolics and oak spice, the acidity pure and fine. It has delicious leesy/smoky/flavours. It’s a lovely drink and there's no need to wait to drink it.

Ryan Montgomery

Ryan Montgomery

James Suckling 94 Points

The nose is deeply complex and inviting, with aromas of lemon confit, quince, lime curd and grapefruit rind. The palate is medium-bodied with focused acidity and a generous mouthfeel, giving notes of fresh pineapple, white chocolate nougat, gun smoke and orange blossoms. A good balance of power and freshness.

Aaron Brasher

Aaron Brasher

The Real Review 91 Points

Mid-straw and vibrant in the glass. Lifted aromas of grilled nuts, nougat, stone fruit, melon and sweet pastry. Rich and mouth-filling, with plenty of ripe, fleshy fruit. The oak shapes the fruit nicely and brings a nuttiness as well as framework. The acidity is punchy and snappy and keeps all in check.

Gary Walsh

Gary Walsh

The Wine Front 94 Points

Some struck match, grapefruit, lemon oil, light spicy oak and cashew, honey florals, and fennel. Juicy but tight, with good intensity and flavour, though it’s still pretty light on its feet, a little nectarine and honeydew melon in with citrus, creamy cashew, light struck match, with a bright grapefruit tang on a finish of excellent length. A strong release of this wine, I think.

94 points - "Some struck match, grapefruit, lemon oil, light spicy oak and cashew, honey florals, and fennel. Juicy but tight, with good intensity and flavour, though it’s still pretty light on its feet, a little nectarine and honeydew melon in with citrus, creamy cashew, light struck match, with a bright grapefruit tang on a finish of excellent length. A strong release of this wine, I think." - Gary Walsh (The Wine Front)

94 points - "The nose is deeply complex and inviting, with aromas of lemon confit, quince, lime curd and grapefruit rind. The palate is medium-bodied with focused acidity and a generous mouthfeel, giving notes of fresh pineapple, white chocolate nougat, gun smoke and orange blossoms. A good balance of power and freshness." - JamesSuckling.com

91 points - "Mid-straw and vibrant in the glass. Lifted aromas of grilled nuts, nougat, stone fruit, melon and sweet pastry. Rich and mouth-filling, with plenty of ripe, fleshy fruit. The oak shapes the fruit nicely and brings a nuttiness as well as framework. The acidity is punchy and snappy and keeps all in check." - Aaron Brasher (The Real Review)

Vasse Felix Premier Chardonnay
A quintessential Margaret River Chardonnay, crafted from a selection of Vasse Felix’s premier plots. This wine reflects the modern Margaret River style—elegant, powerful, and restrained—enhanced by the wild complexity that distinguishes Vasse Felix Chardonnay.

Appearance
Bright, pale lemon yellow.

Nose
Resolved and fine, with complex perfumes of lemon custard, accented by fennel seed and yellow flowers. The influence of yeast lees is evident, bringing aromas of shortbread, lemon meringue, and crunchy nectarine.

Palate
A tight, elegant palate with impressive fruit weight and underlying power. It is beautifully mouthwatering, featuring subtle saline minerality and polished acidity. The finish is dry and savoury, with delicate notes of nectarine and wood spice.

Winemaker Comments
Selected premier Chardonnay sections from the Wilyabrup and Wallcliffe vineyards, both located on the lean coastal ridge soils, were used to produce this concentrated, low-yielding wine.

Some sections were hand-harvested, gently whole-bunch pressed, and transferred as unclarified juice to French oak barriques for fermentation.
The remaining fruit was Selectiv harvested and direct pressed with high solids, cloudy juice, then racked to barrel.
All batches were fermented with wild yeasts from the vineyard and matured on lees for 9 months in barrel, followed by an additional 6 months of blending for harmonisation.
The majority of the wine is made from Gingin clone (78%), contributing strength, power, and structure. The remaining Bernard clones 95, 96, and 76 provide lightness, softness, and creaminess for palate balance.

Vintage Description
A cool, dry spring delayed vine development by 2–3 weeks, but consistent mild conditions in December, January, and February allowed the vines to catch up, producing well-balanced fruit.
Yields and bunch weights were highlights, with bright acidity and sound flavour ripeness developing in the Chardonnay.
March brought three small rain events, the most significant post-white harvest.
Cool evenings, moderate daytime temperatures, and afternoon sea breezes ensured gentle, consistent tannin ripening.
High bird pressure led to the largest netting program since 2019. Despite this, vineyard plots displayed excellent balance and vine health.
Winemaking Details
Varieties: 100% Chardonnay
Harvested: 14 February – 10 March 2023
Pressing: Hand-harvested, chilled, whole bunch pressed; Selectiv harvested, direct pressed
Juice Turbidity: Full solids from whole bunch pressing (average 550 NTU)
Fermentation: 100% wild yeast
Fermentation Vessel: French oak barrique
Maturation: 15 months total (9 months in oak, 6 months blended in tank)
Oak Profile: 28% new, 72% 1–3 years old
Bottled: 4 June 2024
Wine Analysis
TA: 6.4 g/L
pH: 3.12
Malic Acid: 0.23 g/L (MLF complete)
Residual Sugar: 0.79 g/L
Alcohol: 13.0%
Vegan Friendly: Yes
Cellaring
Enjoy fresh now or cellar for 5+ years to develop complex, aged characteristics.

Price Bracket $31 to $40
Type White
Body Full Bodied
Variety Chardonnay
Country Australia
Region Margaret River
Australian State WA
Reviewed By The Real Review
James Suckling
The Wine Front
Critic Score 94
Alcohol 13%
Size 750ml
Vintage 2023
Closure Screw Cap

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