2023 Sentio Lusastia Park Chardonnay

95 pts
One of Beechworth's young rising stars tackles Chardonnay from the Yarra Valley.

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Description

Chris Catlow is one of Beechworth’s best producers. The level of detail applied his exploration of Chardonnay is exceptional.

This Yarra Valley Chardonnay is a wine of intensity and extreme precision. The fruit is sourced from the famous Lusatia Park vineyard in the Yarra Valley. Chris chooses to pick this fruit a little later than many other winemakers from the region, looking for full flavour development with acid retention before the fruit comes off.

This is straight up basket pressed as whole bunches, the fruit as the soloist, oak playing second fiddle. The length is wonderful. The expression is pure. 

Strap yourself in, this is one of the best examples of Yarra Chardonnay we have seen this year.

95 points
"It shows in both generosity of fruit and fineness of structure in this stunning '23. Bright, concentrated aromas in melon and citrus fruits, pear, nectarine and gentle spice, buttery and flinty. Smooth in texture, almost luscious, and well composed with a touch of tangy acid drive to close."
- Jeni Port (Halliday Wine Companion)

95 points
"The range of wine here is largely superlative. This said, the chardonnay style is a lean, almost combative one... Sexy oak rims, subtle and embellishing, rather than lording. Hints of toasted hazelnut, praline and the barest hint of fruit. Phenolics as much as freshness, playing their structural hand. A lean, barely mid-weighted chardonnay that stands to fill out very well. Drinkable now, but best from 2027."
- James Suckling

95 points
"There’s a good hit of creamy texture to the palate, which is waxy and fulsome. Lemon butter, pear, pastry dough, grapefruit pith, and preserved lemon burst through the mouth while being wrapped up in a sheath of attractively bitter phenolics and lemon rind-drenched acidity. Good draw of length. The wine’s waxiness and savouriness work beautifully with the fruit, with ample structure to frame it all. Packed with interest."
- Tom Kline (Inside Burgundy)

95 points - "The range of wine here is largely superlative. This said, the chardonnay style is a lean, almost combative one. Maker Chris Catlow does not encourage malolactic conversion, although some may sneak past his visor, given the ambient yeasts at play. A glaze of cinnamon, spiced quince and tangerine, flecked with a well-placed sesame riff on reduction. Sexy oak rims, subtle and embellishing, rather than lording. Hints of toasted hazelnut, praline and the barest hint of fruit. Phenolics as much as freshness, playing their structural hand. A lean, barely mid-weighted chardonnay that stands to fill out very well. Drinkable now, but best from 2027." - James Suckling

95 points - "Lusatia Park is 200m in elevation, rocky and volcanic in soils and a top Yarra Valley vineyard for chardonnay. It shows in both generosity of fruit and fineness of structure in this stunning '23. Bright, concentrated aromas in melon and citrus fruits, pear, nectarine and gentle spice, buttery and flinty. Smooth in texture, almost luscious, and well composed with a touch of tangy acid drive to close." - Jeni Port (Halliday Wine Companion)

95 points – "Alluring aromas of lemon clotted cream, salted lemon, green apple skin, wax, and cheesecloth brood in the glass, with grilled nuts and salinity in tow. There’s a good hit of creamy texture to the palate, which is waxy and fulsome. Lemon butter, pear, pastry dough, grapefruit pith, and preserved lemon burst through the mouth while being wrapped up in a sheath of attractively bitter phenolics and lemon rind-drenched acidity. Good draw of length. The wine’s waxiness and savouriness work beautifully with the fruit, with ample structure to frame it all. Packed with interest. Drink from 2025–2029. Tasted Dec 2024." – Tom Kline (Inside Burgundy)

94 points - "It’s low in stated alcohol and it’s definitely racy through the finish – and well-sustained with it – but the intense attack of sweet fruit flavour here is pretty amazing. This has got some flavour to it. Pear, green pineapple, nectarine and cooked apple characters come laced with cedarwood, cream and flint. This needs time but it’s very good." - Campbell Mattinson (The Wine Front)

Price Bracket $51 to $100
Type White
Variety Chardonnay
Country Australia
Region Yarra Valley
Australian State VIC
Feature High Score
Reviewed By Halliday Wine Companion
The Wine Front
James Suckling
Inside Burgundy
Critic Score 95
94
Size 750ml
Vintage 2023
Closure Cork

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