2023 Marco Lubiana One Terroir Chardonnay

96 pts
Marco Lubiana |Derwent Valley |Chardonnay
A precise and powerful single-block Chardonnay from Tasmania’s Derwent Valley, shaped by biodynamic farming and a thoughtful hand in the cellar.

Price:
Sale price$95.00
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Description

The 2023 One Terroir Chardonnay marks an important step for Marco Lubiana - his first release focused entirely on the family’s Granton Estate in the Derwent Valley.

It’s a wine that reflects Marco’s deep connection to the site, drawing on his upbringing, biodynamic farming know-how, and a pared-back approach in the cellar. Fruit for this cuvée comes from a lower slope block with silty gravel over clay, a spot where Chardonnay struggles a little, but in turn delivers greater concentration and natural acidity.

To balance the power and shape the texture, the wine undergoes full malolactic fermentation and sees a bit more time on skins and in oak. The result is a structured, mineral-driven expression - intense yet composed, with impressive drive and detail.

It’s drinking well now but has the bones to evolve beautifully over the next five years.

96 points
"A mineral-driven wine with notes of struck match wisping over the white peach, nectarine and citrus fruits below. There's a sense of compression and tension here that I really like... Super classy stuff."
- Dave Brookes (Halliday Wine Companion)

96 points
"It has a glossiness and bulbous nature, slips and slides along well and long, a bit of warmth but fits the bill, finishes with just a touch of (pleasing) bitterness that finishes dry and mouth-watering. Serious wine, serious flavour, complex, layered, intense and just damn good."
- Mike Bennie (The Wine Front
96 points
"Truly exceptional with a high level of sophistication. Excellent. Drink or hold."
- JamesSuckling.com

96 points - "A chardonnay parcel off slightly more silty/gravel over brown/red washed out clay on the Granton Estate hill in the Derwent Valley. A mineral-driven wine with notes of struck match wisping over the white peach, nectarine and citrus fruits below. There's a sense of compression and tension here that I really like; the fruit is quite concentrated but the mineral-laden acid line governs it and provides a great cadence and energy. White peach, nectarine, lemon curd, spiced meal, struck flint, sea spray, crushed shell, white flowers and almond paste with a creamy curd wake marking its passage as it tracks across the palate. Super classy stuff." - Dave Brookes (Halliday Wine Companion)

96 points - "This comes from a single parcel that feels distinct for winemaker Marco Lubiana. The winemaking approach seems to lean into more pressing (more texture) and more flavour (more barrel). Both ok by me. The fruit is biodynamic (certified) grown. At the meatier, fuller end of the spectrum but the whoosh of cooling, briny acidity comes through and whips things into shape. It’s just-ripe peach and nectarine, green almond, pear, a lick of natural yoghurt and a faint crackle of honeycomb and sea spray. It has a glossiness and bulbous nature, slips and slides along well and long, a bit of warmth but fits the bill, finishes with just a touch of (pleasing) bitterness that finishes dry and mouth-watering. Serious wine, serious flavour, complex, layered, intense and just damn good." - Mike Bennie (The Wine Front)

96 points - "Grown on gravelly clay in Tasmania's Derwent Valley, the 2023 One Terroir Chardonnay leads with lemon zest and orange oil, biscuit and fennel, backed by nuts, chalk and cloth. In the mouth, the acidity slices through it all like a rapier's thrust. The phenolic structure parries with fine-boned support, and the myriad of flavors penetrate deep into the finish. This is a superb wine, one of athletic energy, stoic composure and focused line. 13% alcohol, sealed under natural cork and wax." - Erin Larkin (The Wine Advocate)

96 points - "Reductive and mineral-driven aromas of flint, lemon confit, sea spray and tangerines. The palate is tightly wound with a creamy texture and precise acidity, giving notes of grapefruit pith, graphite, orange blossoms, honeysuckle and beeswax. Truly exceptional with a high level of sophistication. Excellent. Drink or hold." - JamesSuckling.com

The 2023 Vintage
2023 was a tricky year, it was the last year of the La Nina, so it was cooler and wetter than normal.
Thus, making it challenging to mitigate disease but we were fortunate not to have any problems. The reds are typically more fruit forward from this year with less tannin, easy to drink straight out of the bottle, which is not a bad thing. On the other hand, the chardonnays cropped very low due to the poor conditions, so acidity is up and so is complexity. I think they will need a bit of time, but they look good already. Overall, I am very happy considering the challenging vintage, but it is just a lot harder to grow and make them!
– Marco Lubiana

The 2023 One Terroir Chardonnay
2023 One Terroir Chardonnay is a single parcel off a slightly more silty gravel over brown/red washed out clay lower on the estate hill. The chardonnay struggles in this soil type and the natural acidity is always high hence why I use full malolactic fermentation on all my chardonnays.

This pick gets more time at the press with slightly more pressings, some phenolics are to be expected but I have increased the oak percentage (with my favourite barrels) to balance it, so the overall wine is structured and powerful but with restraint, from the acid line.

It is great now but will continue to get better and more silky with 5 years in the bottle. From certified biodynamic vineyards.
– Marco Lubiana

Price Bracket $51 to $100
Type White
Body Full Bodied
Variety Chardonnay
Country Australia
Region Derwent Valley
Australian State TAS
Reviewed By James Suckling
Halliday Wine Companion
The Wine Front
The Wine Advocate
Critic Score 96
Alcohol 13%
Size 750ml
Vintage 2023
Closure Cork

Marco Lubiana

Marco Lubiana is the latest of his bloodline to take up winemaking. The Lubianas have made wine in Italy since the 1800s, with Marco's father Steve founding his acclaimed biodynamic wine label, Stefano Lubiana, in Tasmania in 1990.

Marco has a degree in Oenology and Viticulture and biodynamic farming in his blood. His wines are carefully farmed and brought to bottle with a mostly natural methodology. An established and well-known vineyard recently purchased by the Lubianas is the source of the fruit. His first releases are incredibly good. Clearly the grape doesn't fall far from the vine.

Get in early on Marco's wines. As word gets out, these premium Tasmanian cuveés will disappear in no time.

Marco Lubiana amongst the vines Explore Marco Lubiana Wines

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