2023 IDDA Bianco Sicilia DOP

94 pts
Gaja |Etna |Carricante
Gaja’s Etna project puts Carricante front and centre, offering a precise, quietly confident white that sidesteps the trends without compromising on intent.

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Sale price$145.00
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Description

"Angelo Gaja is, without question, the most famous wine producer in Italy. Possibly one of the most famous in the world. He is credited with developing techniques that revolutionised winemaking in Italy.
- International Wine Challenge

The IDDA project is Gaja’s move into Sicily - specifically Mount Etna - and like many things Gaja, it’s done on their own terms. Rather than joining the crowd on Etna’s fashionable north slope, they teamed up with local grower Alberto Graci and headed south, planting Carricante at elevation on volcanic soils near Belpasso and Biancavilla.

The 2023 is the first white made entirely at their newly built winery, sitting right within the Belpasso vineyard. Most of the fruit comes from there, with a smaller portion from Biancavilla. It’s 100% Carricante, handled simply - mainly fermented in stainless steel, with a portion in large-format oak for added texture. Some of the wine sees malo, some doesn’t, giving it shape without losing freshness.

Because Belpasso lies just outside the Etna DOC, the wine is labelled Sicilia DOP - but don’t mistake the classification for a lack of seriousness. This is a focused, quietly ambitious white with a strong sense of place, made by people who clearly believe Carricante deserves more attention.

94 points
"Crushed rocks, sesame, curry leaf, nectarine and lemon zest lead to zesty acidity and orchard fruit. Salty, spicy and mouthwatering with a long candied lime finish."
- Eric Guido (Vinous)

94 points - "The 2023 Bianco demands attention with a beguiling bouquet that mixes crushed rocks, sesame seeds and curry leaves with nectarines and lemon zest. This opens with a pretty inner sweetness contrasted by masses of salty minerals and zesty acidity as ripe orchard fruits cascade throughout. The 2023 tapers off dramatically, long and spicy. A sour citrus tinge forces the mouth to salivate as hints of candied lime and a tart Granny Smith apple concentration slowly fade. In a word, fantastic." - Eric Guido (Vinous)

Importer's Notes:

There is no question that the Gaja family has never been one to swim with the current—not simply to be seen as modernisers or to stand out from the crowd, but to challenge established norms in pursuit of producing the best wine possible.

In a region synonymous with high-quality red wine production—particularly from the northern slopes of Mount Etna, where Nerello Mascalese dominates—Gaja took a different path. They chose to purchase an existing vineyard and establish a new site on the less publicised southern slopes. All new plantings were Carricante, a white grape variety.

With 80% of current plantings on Etna devoted to Nerello Mascalese, the fact that most of IDDA production will be white wine from Carricante, and from south-facing slopes, is highly unorthodox. But so was planting Chardonnay in Barbaresco-classified sites…

100% Carricante. After harvest, a small parcel is left overnight on skins before pressing. Fermentation is split: 80% in stainless steel tank, and 20% in a mix of 1,000-litre seasoned French oak and 5,000-litre Austrian Stockinger barrels. A portion of the wine undergoes malolactic fermentation. Total élevage is 8 months. Each plot is aged separately for 6 months, then blended and bottled 2 months later.

Why is it not classified as Etna Bianco DOP?

The first vineyard Gaja purchased is in Biancavilla, which lies within the Etna DOP boundaries and includes some old-vine Carricante. However, the second vineyard, in Belpasso—where the IDDA winery has been built—is also planted exclusively with Carricante but sits just outside the official Etna DOP boundary.

Because IDDA Bianco is a blend of fruit from both vineyards, it does not qualify for the Etna Bianco DOP designation. Gaja had always intended to plant in Belpasso, so the wine has been labelled Bianca Sicilia since its inception.

Price Bracket $101 and Above
Type White
Body Full Bodied
Variety Carricante
Country Italy
Region Etna
Reviewed By Vinous
Critic Score 94
Size 750ml
Vintage 2023
Closure Cork

Gaja

The Gaja family has been producing wine in the hills of Barbaresco, Piedmont since 1859. But it was under the leadership of Angelo Gaja from the 1960s that the estate rose to global prominence, redefining what Italian fine wine could be. Today, his children - Gaia, Rossana, and Giovanni - are guiding the next chapter of the family legacy.

Gaja’s wines are a benchmark of modern Italian winemaking - bold, polished, and built for the long haul. Single-vineyard bottlings like Sorì Tildìn and Costa Russi broke new ground for Barbaresco, while plantings of Cabernet and Chardonnay challenged tradition and put Langhe on the world stage.

Beyond Barbaresco, the family now crafts celebrated wines from Bolgheri and Montalcino, and most recently, from the volcanic slopes of Etna under the IDDA label - a joint project with Alberto Graci that’s turning heads for its purity and poise. Wherever they go, Gaja remains a symbol of innovation, ambition, and Italian excellence.

The Gaja family Gaja

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