2023 Cesar Marquez El Val Godello

98 pts
Cesar Marquez |Bierzo |Godello
A hauntingly beautiful "unicorn" wine that channels the flinty, smoky reduction of a Grand Cru Burgundy through some of the oldest vines in Valtuille.

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Description

"César Márquez is my Bierzo Winemaker of the Year for 2025... he is crafting wines with real finesse and a 'vertical' poise that marks him as a leader of the region's new generation."
- Tim Atkin MW

This is the "unicorn" of the lineup. With only 12 bottles available in Australia and a tiny total production of just 570 bottles, El Val is César’s top-tier white. It comes from an ancient, cool-climate parcel in Valtuille de Abajo that’s actually surrounded by red grapes. It’s a bit of an outlier, and honestly, it’s one of the most complete whites we’ve seen in years.

If you’re a fan of high-end white Burgundy, this is going to be right up your alley. It has that stunning, smoky "struck match" reduction on the nose, along with hints of flint, gunpowder, and toasted sesame. It’s incredibly complex, moving from green apple and salted lemon into more savory notes of praline and toasted macadamia as it sits in the glass.

The stats on this 2023 are pretty wild too. It’s got a massive nearly 8 grams of acidity, which gives it this electric, linear precision. It was fermented in a single 500 liter barrel and aged on lees without any stirring, which kept the wine focused and compact rather than heavy. The palate is concentrated and creamy, but it's that persistent, salty finish that really makes it stand out.

Beth Willard gave this 98 points in the 2025 Tim Atkin report, and it's easy to see why. It’s a mineral-drenched, high-tension Godello that is soon to be classified as a 'Viña Clasificada' - Bierzo's version of a Grand Cru site. This is a rare, precise, and utterly delicious wine that represents the very peak of what César is achieving.

98 points "Marked by a real sense of energy and tension... an outstanding example in the category." - Beth Willard (Tim Atkin Bierzo Report)

97 points "A stunning nose... very Burgundian à la Coche-Dury. It's very tasty, with a salty twist in the finish."

98 points, "With a hint of struck match reduction and a wonderful sense of expression, this is a mineral and citrussy white which is marked by a real sense of energy and tension. There is a lovely touch of bitter almond and a certain nutty character reminiscent of toasted macadamia which unfurls to a persistent and saline finish. From a very old parcel in Valtuille de Abajo, the wine will soon be classified as Viña Classificada and will be an outstanding example in the category. 2025-2029" - Beth Willard (Tim Atkin Bierzo Report)

97 points, "The top white 2023 El Val comes from one of the coolest places in Valtuille with vines regrafted to old-clone Godello. It has 13.09% alcohol, a pH of 3.09 and 7.98 grams of acidity, with good ripeness and very good parameters for acidity and freshness in a very complete year that is closer to 2021 than to 2022. It comes from ancient vines on clay, stone and quartzite soils and fermented in one 500-liter barrel, where the wine matured with the lees that were never stirred for 12 months. It has a stunning nose, smoky and flinty, with a lovely reduction and hints of gunpowder and toasted sesame seeds, very Burgundian à la Coche-Dury. It's very tasty, with a salty twist in the finish. Only 570 bottles were produced. It was bottled in October 2024." - Luis Gutiérrez (Wine Advocate)

97 points, "The 2023 El Val is 100% Godello from a unique white parcel in Valtuille, surrounded by reds. The aromas are reductive to start, with notes of flint and gunpowder, evolving to green apple, floral hints, praline and herbs. Expressive and compact, the palate is fresh, concentrated, and lifted, with a soft, creamy touch. Utterly delicious." - Joaquin Hidalgo (Vinous)

96 points, "The nose shows salted lemons with a restrained touch of flint. The palate is medium- to full-bodied with brilliant acidity. It’s linear and precise, with just the right amount of extract. There’s an exceptional sense of balance. Drink now." - James Suckling

Price Bracket $101 and Above
Type White
Body Full Bodied
Variety Godello
Country Spain
Region Bierzo
Reviewed By Vinous
James Suckling
The Wine Advocate
Tim Atkin MW
Critic Score 98
Size 750ml
Vintage 2023

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