2023 Castro Ventosa Cepas Centenarias

98 pts
Castro Ventosa's flagship Bierzo Mencía from century-old vines in Valtuille.

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Sale price$149.00
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Description

Cepas Centenarias was Castro Ventosa's first grand vin back in 1999, and it's still the wine that best captures what the Pérez family's old vines in Valtuille can do. The 2023 has picked up 98 points from James Suckling and 97 from The Wine Advocate, which tells you plenty.

The Pérez family have farmed around Valtuille for something like 250 years. Raúl Pérez, the man credited alongside Álvaro Palacios with putting Bierzo on the map, ran his first harvest here at 22. These days he makes the wines with César Márquez Pérez, whose own label is known for its precision and clarity.

In recent years this has come from a single plot in Mata Los Pardos, an old field blend of Mencía with up to 5% Trousseau on clay and sand. It's fermented with wild yeasts and 30% whole bunches in an oak vat, sits on skins for a long 45 days, then spends 12 months in 225- and 500-litre barrels. Only 4,100 bottles were made.

It's a touch riper than most 2023s, though still only 13% alcohol, and it doesn't feel heavy at all. Expect elderberry, dried flowers, herbs and an earthy edge, with firm but fine tannins and a really focused, chiselled finish. Lovely now with slow-roasted lamb or a mushroom risotto, and it has the structure to keep going for years.

Power and elegance in the one glass, from one of Spain's great winemaking families. Serious Bierzo, and scarce.

98 points & #9 in the 2025 James Suckling Top 100 Wines of Spain
"Focused and chiseled, it shows structure and seriousness, yet carries a candid, pleasant undertone."
- Jacobo García Andrade (James Suckling)

97 points
"this is a very complete wine, combining power and elegance... one of the most serious wines from the vintage, also very clean."
- Luis Gutiérrez (The Wine Advocate)

98 points & #9 in the 2025 James Suckling Top 100 Wines of Spain - "More restrained on the nose, with elderberry, dried flowers, herbal tones, and an earthy, tile-like note. The palate is medium to full-bodied, with firm yet fine-grained tannins. Focused and chiseled, it shows structure and seriousness, yet carries a candid, pleasant undertone. This comes from a sandy clay soil in Mata los Pardos. This is fermented with partial whole cluster. Drink now or hold." - Jacobo García Andrade (James Suckling)

97 points - "The old-vine cuvée 2023 Valtuille Cepas Centenarias was their first grand vin in 1999, but in the last few years, it has been produced with the field blend found in a single plot in Mata Los Pardos, which has up to 5% Trousseau, on clay and sandy soils. It fermented with 30% full clusters and indigenous yeasts in an oak vat with a 45-day maceration and matured in 225- and 500-liter oak barrels for 12 months. It has more ripeness than other 2023s, 13.16% alcohol, and balanced acidity, but this is a very complete wine, combining power and elegance. It has depth and complexity and is one of the most serious wines from the vintage, also very clean. 4,100 bottles and 36 magnums were produced. It was bottled in May 2025." - Luis Gutiérrez (The Wine Advocate)

Technical Details
Alcohol: 13.16%
Oak: 225- and 500-liter oak barrels for 12 months
Production: 4,100 bottles and 36 magnums
Bottled: May 2025

About Castro Ventosa
Castro Ventosa has a deep-rooted history in Bierzo. It's the name of the old castle, or what remains of it, that overlooks the town of Valtuille. The Pérez family have been quite the custodians for the better part of 250 years; through this time they have tended the old vines and crafted wines with the sense of place we love. Over the past few decades, Raúl Pérez has been in charge.

Widely considered one of the most talented and influential winemakers to come out of Spain, Raúl is credited alongside Álvaro Palacios with putting Bierzo on the map, and with inspiring a whole generation of "New Spain" winemakers to focus on terroir and native varieties. He cut his teeth at Castro Ventosa, leading his first harvest there at just 22 and has since become something of a mentor figure to young winemakers right across the northwest.

Alongside him is César Márquez Pérez, another name you may be familiar with. After launching his own eponymous label back in 2015, he's become known for wines of real precision and clarity and it's that same precision he now brings to the Castro Ventosa range, which he vinifies alongside Raúl. The family have always been forward-thinking, and were bottling single-site wines long before the DOP recognised them in 2017.

The village of Valtuille itself has predominantly sandy soils. They craft wines of elegance, freshness and purity, all while showing the concentration, power and longevity.

Price Bracket $101 and Above
Type Red
Body Medium Bodied
Variety Mencía
Country Spain
Region Bierzo
Feature High Score
Reviewed By James Suckling
The Wine Advocate
Critic Score 98
Alcohol 13%
Size 750ml
Vintage 2023
Closure Cork

Castro Ventosa

Castro Ventosa is the Pérez family’s home estate in Bierzo, northwestern Spain, where they’ve grown grapes since at least 1752. Based in Valtuille de Abajo, it’s a producer built around generations of vineyard knowledge and an exceptional collection of old Mencía vines.

This is the family behind Raúl Pérez, one of Spain’s most influential winemakers. His nephew César Márquez now runs the cellar and day-to-day project, with Raúl contributing his experience.

The family owns its vineyards, including many parcels more than 85 years old. Different soils, slopes and exposures give each plot its own character, which becomes increasingly clear as you explore the village and individual vineyard wines.

Mencía is the main attraction, with Godello providing the whites. Larger barrels and gentle cellar work have brought greater freshness to the range, preserving the perfume and detail of the fruit.

We love the combination of old-vine depth and drinkability here. From the approachable reds through to the finest vineyard bottlings, Castro Ventosa is a terrific way to discover Mencía and the diversity of Bierzo.

Spanish winemaking legend Raul Perez Castro Ventosa

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