2021 Comando G Las Umbrias Garnacha

98 pts
Comando G |Sierra de Gredos |Grenache
Grown high in the shaded hills of Rozas, this is Garnacha at its most subtle and expressive - cool, aromatic, and almost weightless, but with serious energy and structure underneath.

Price:
Sale price$379.00
Stock:
In stock, ready to ship, only 1 unit left
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Description

"At the crossroads of classicism and unpretentious cool, Landi and García have introduced a new audience – of both drinkers and collectors – to a finer side of Spanish wines."
- Ines Salpica (Decanter Magazine)

Las Umbrias is one of Comando G’s most delicate and distinctive wines, drawn from a small, east-facing plot tucked high into the hills above Rozas de Puerto Real. At 1,000 metres, in near constant shade, the vineyard’s conditions are extreme - but it’s here that Garnacha shows a completely different face: fine, lifted and almost weightless.

2021 was a cooler, late-ripening year, and it suited this vineyard perfectly. The team handled the fruit as gently as possible - whole-bunch fermented, long maceration, and aged in a single large foudre. The result is a wine that’s pale in colour but seriously structured, with piercing acidity and an almost whisper-soft texture.

Bottled cloudy and unfined, this isn’t Garnacha chasing richness or power. It’s quiet, detailed, and incredibly pure - less about fruit, more about place and feeling. One of the most distinctive wines in the Comando G lineup.

98 points
"Unusual and magical, the 2021 Las Umbrías is bottled cloudy and unfiltered, with wild Jura-like aromas and notes of red fruit, tangerine, and flowers. Cold, ethereal, and delicate with crystalline energy and almost invisible tannins. A vibrant, characterful palate with great finesse. 1,490 bottles produced."
- Luis Gutiérrez (The Wine Advocate)

96 points
"Confidently cloudy with wild herbs, tile, white pepper, and grapefruit. Peppery funk and juicy energy on a light, airy palate. Long, intense finish. Drink now."
- Zekun Shuai (James Suckling)

98 points - "The 2021 Las Umbrías is completely unusual. For a start, it's cloudy. They decided to bottle it like that, without racking, and the nose feels like a Poulsard from the Jura produced in Chambolle-Musigny, wild, lively and expressive. It has notes of red fruit, hints of tangerine and flowers. It's cold, ethereal, delicate, with almost unnoticeable tannins, and it's full of crystalline energy, quartz and iron. This is a vineyard that marks the vintages like no other. In great vintages, it has great finesse; and in warmer years, it suffers more. This is not a vintage for all consumers, as the wine is quite different from previous years, with a contained 13.5% alcohol and a vibrant and characterful palate. Magical. A total of 1,490 bottles were filled in March 2023, unfiltered and unfined, as direct as possible from the tank, where it was racked directly from the foudre." - Luis Gutiérrez (The Wine Advocate)

96 points - "Confidently cloudy and definitely the most cloudy Comando G vintage so far. Wild herbs, tile, white pepper and freshly cut grapefruit. Lovely peppery funk here. Intense and peppery on the palate but very airy in form. Really juicy and flavorful with a long, intense finish. Drink now." - Zekun Shuai (James Suckling)

Wine Overview

Growing Area: Sierra de Gredos
Appellation: D.O. Vinos de Madrid
Village: Rozas de Puerto Real
Grape Variety: 100% Grenache
Vintage: 2021
A vintage marked by cold temperatures, late harvests, and a season of adversity—snowfall, frost, and rain—all culminating in wines of elegance, restraint, and purity. Considered one of the finest vintages in the region.
Vineyard Details
Plot: Las Umbrías (single vineyard)
Climate: Humid Mediterranean
Soil: Sandy, silty, quartz-rich granite
Vineyard Size: 0.5 hectares
Orientation: East-facing
Altitude: 1,000 meters (highest vineyard in Rozas de Puerto Real)
Vine Age: 60–65 years
Viticulture & Winemaking
Farming: Biodynamic
Harvest Date: October 1st
Vinification:
Fermented in open oak vat
100% whole bunches
Indigenous yeasts
Soft maceration, no pump-overs or aggressive extraction
62 days of maceration
Ageing:
14 months in a 1,200L wooden foudre
Bottling:
No clarification, filtration, or stabilization
Production Details
Total Production: 1,490 bottles and 30 magnums
Alcohol: 13.5%
Tasting Comments
From the fresh, east-facing upper slopes of El Cerro de los Corzos, Las Umbrías offers a Grenache of rare finesse and elevation. Ethereal and almost weightless, this is a red wine with the soul of a white—crystalline, precise, and lifted like the transparent light of dawn. A wine of purity, grace, and quiet power.





Price Bracket $101 and Above
Type Red
Body Medium Bodied
Variety Grenache
Country Spain
Region Sierra de Gredos
Feature Cult
High Score
Reviewed By The Wine Advocate
James Suckling
Critic Score 98
96
Size 750ml
Vintage 2021
Closure Cork

Comando G

High in the rugged Sierra de Gredos, just west of Madrid, Comando G is redefining Spanish Garnacha. Daniel Gómez Jiménez-Landi and Fernando García craft wines of purity, finesse and place - not power - using old vines rooted in decomposed granite up to 1,200 metres above sea level.

Their philosophy is radical in its simplicity: farm biodynamically, ferment whole bunch, age in neutral oak. No tricks, no heavy hands - just clarity, tension, and minerality. Think Garnacha with the precision of Pinot or Nebbiolo.

From cult bottlings like Las Umbrías and Rumbo al Norte to the broader village wines, their work has captured global attention without selling out. These aren’t polished show ponies - they’re soulful, site-driven expressions that vibrate with energy and authenticity.

But Comando G is more than a wine label. It’s a quiet revolution in the making. Every vine is hand-tended, dry-grown and treated with reverence. They’re not just restoring a grape - they’re reviving a landscape. This is mountain wine at its most profound: electric, transparent, and rooted in place. Comando G isn’t following the zeitgeist - they’re reshaping it, bottle by bottle.

Daniel Gómez Jiménez-Landi and Fernando García Comando G

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