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There are few producers in the world - let alone Spain - doing what Comando G is doing. From the remote granite peaks of the Sierra de Gredos, they’ve taken Garnacha out of the co-op and into the conversation with the world’s most transparent, site-driven wines.
Daniel Gómez Jiménez-Landi and Fernando García aren’t chasing trends, they're rebuilding a region, restoring abandoned vineyards, and proving that Garnacha, when grown high and handled with care, can be as nuanced and ageworthy as Pinot or Nebbiolo.
These are wines of altitude and attitude - quietly revolutionary, unmistakably Gredos, and utterly thrilling in the glass.
"At the crossroads of classicism and unpretentious cool, Landi and García have introduced a new audience – of both drinkers and collectors – to a finer side of Spanish wines."
- Ines Salpica (Decanter Magazine)
The Villanueva release shows Comando G at their most dialled-in - expressive but composed, with a clarity that really speaks to the site. Sourced from a few high plots around Villanueva de Ávila - La Cañada, Las Herguijuelas and El Robledillo - it sits just shy of 1000 metres up in the Gredos range. The soils here have a little more silt than the surrounding villages, and the wine seems to carry that extra lift and finesse.
In 2023, they’ve nailed the balance. It’s whole bunches as usual, fermented slow and wild, then rested in big old oak and demijohn to keep it honest. No fining, no filtration, and sulphur kept right at the edge. It’s a wine with length, not weight - all the detail, none of the showiness.
It’s not trying to prove anything. Just letting the vineyards talk, and keeping the volume low. On the down-low, this is one of the most complete expressions in the line-up.
96 points
"The village 2023 Villanueva from Villanueva de Ávila is stunning, very aromatic and floral combined with minerality, coming through as more complete and with complexity, elegance and great length. The nose could remind you of a red from Chambolle-Musigny. They do not use sulfur until bottling, keeping the balance between precision and character. It has an ethereal side with notes of watermelon, rose hip and hibiscus, with a strong mineral, wet-granite sensation. It has energy with precision. This is a bargain for the quality it delivers."
- Luis Gutiérrez (The Wine Advocate)
The Rozas village wine captures everything Comando G is about — old-vine Garnacha with clarity, crunch and a sense of place. It’s drawn from five separate sites around Rozas de Puerto Real, all sitting up around 900 metres, where the soils are poor, the vines are old, and the light seems to bounce off the granite. This isn’t the old Rozas 1er Cru — that cuvée’s been retired — but the fruit and feel haven’t gone anywhere.
2023 saw a return to more moderate conditions, and the wine reflects that. It’s supple and savoury, whole bunches doing their thing quietly in the background. Fermented wild, aged in large old oak, bottled with just a whisper of sulphur and nothing else. No tricks, no makeup.
There’s always a bit of grip in the Rozas wines — a lick of tannin, a stony edge — but the fruit glides through it all. Cool, clean and effortlessly drinkable.
95 points
"It's juicy and has notes of pomegranate and strawberry and the powdery texture akin to chalk. It's clean and tasty."
- Luis Gutiérrez (The Wine Advocate)
Comando G’s Navatalgordo bottling pushes Garnacha right to the edge - both geographically and stylistically. Sourced from a scatter of old-vine plots up around 1,100 metres in the Alto Alberche, it’s the loftiest of their village wines and one of the most striking. The quartz-rich soils and biting mountain air give it a lean, lifted frame that’s all about tension and clarity rather than comfort.
In 2023, the wine feels even more precise than the previous release - tighter, maybe a bit more introverted on first pour, but it grows. Whole bunches go in the fermenter, then it’s aged gently in old oak and concrete. No tricks, no polish. Just fruit, stems, granite and time.
It’s not trying to dazzle, but it’s got that quiet gravity that pulls you in - a kind of alpine Garnacha with spice, crunch and a long, chalky line through the middle. No make-up, no fat, just beautifully grown fruit from a properly wild site.
95+ points
"It has a stony personality but a perfumed nose of violets and violet pastille, with silty tannins and good grip. It matured in oak vats to polish those village tannins. It's very complete and opens up in the glass nicely, as it's a little more austere than the one from Villanueva. This is the more tannic of the village reds."
- Luis Gutiérrez (The Wine Advocate)
Comando G started as two mates chasing ancient Garnacha vines in the rugged hills west of Madrid. What they found up in the Sierra de Gredos wasn’t just old vines on granite slopes - it was a whole new take on Spanish Garnacha. Light-touch, high-altitude, detail-first winemaking that’s turned plenty of heads.
La Bruja is their most accessible bottling, but don’t let that fool you. It’s from 60-year-old bush vines grown organically on decomposed granite, all picked by hand and fermented with whole bunches. Nothing fancy, just real attention to detail - aged in large old oak and bottled unfiltered, with zero gloss and all the charm.
The 2023 release has that classic Gredos lift and crunch, but feels a little calmer and more composed than the sun-baked 2022. Still full of energy, still hanging out somewhere between mountain wine and bistro red, but maybe with just a touch more polish.
95 points
"It has good ripeness and development of aromas and flavors and is floral, clean, red fruited and herbal, with 14% alcohol and very good freshness and acidity, coming through as balanced and elegant."
- Luis Gutierrez (The Wine Advocate)

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