2024 Sinapius Vaughn's Jardin Gamay

95 pts
A tiny Tasmanian Gamay grown at Grand Cru density, made Pinot-style by Linda Morice as a tribute to Vaughn Dell, who planted it outside their front door.

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Sale price$70.00
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In stock, ready to ship
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Description

Back in September 2015, Linda Morice came home to find that her late husband Vaughn had pulled up the front garden and planted a vineyard. A tiny block of Gamay, crammed in at 11,111 vines per hectare - Grand Cru density, right outside the kitchen window. That was Vaughn: passionate, curious, completely committed. He spent years out there manicuring it by hand, and he always made the wine the Beaujolais way, 100% whole cluster and carbonic, inspired by a region he loved.

Linda has kept the spirit of the wine alive while letting it become something a little different. She'd always wondered how that fruit would perform if it were made more like Pinot Noir, and with a nudge from mentor Joe Holyman she went for it. The 2024 is 90% destemmed with 10% whole bunch, wild fermented, 14 days on skins, old French oak, bottled without fining or filtration. A bit more whole bunch than last year, the approach settling in nicely.

It's a wine with real character: red and blue fruits, a smoky, charcuterie edge, velvety tannins, mineral acidity, and that gentle hint of stem that the whole bunch brings. Compared to some previous vintages though it's so pure and ethereal, with all the expected depth from the close planted vines.

Four vintages in now, and the Jardin keeps getting better. A genuine one-of-a-kind, and one of the more moving stories in Australian wine.

95 points
"The wine Linda makes completely differently to Vaughn is the one named after him... It’s fragrant and supple, all pippy raspberries and their leaves, white pepper and roasted rhubarb."
- Nick Ryan (The Weekend Australian)

94 points
"Ripper drink here, so seamless, succulent... It swishes around the palate with authority of the variety and a good sense of purity... Really delightful, and charismatic."
- Mike Bennie (The Wine Front)

93 points
"It’s a beauty. Fluid, mouthwatering, complex, delicious, perfumed, gently textural... Love it. Want to drink it."
- Campbell Mattinson (The Wine Front)

95 points - "The wine Linda makes completely differently to Vaughn is the one named after him. Where he always treated gamay the Beaujolais way, 100% whole bunches and carbonic maceration, she treats it like pinot noir, mostly destemmed. It’s fragrant and supple, all pippy raspberries and their leaves, white pepper and roasted rhubarb." - Nick Ryan (The Weekend Australian)

94 points - "Ripper drink here, so seamless, succulent, dark cherry leads on cola and cranberry drink with pepper, floral notes, nutmeg and this undercurrent of brightness. So too, a pleasing, undergrowth and truffle note through it all – a gentle savouriness. It swishes around the palate with authority of the variety and a good sense of purity. Au natural for sure as an expression. Really delightful, and charismatic." - Mike Bennie (The Wine Front)

93 points - "11,111 vines per hectare is a bit of a magic number in vine-planting terms. If I opened a wine bar I’d call it 11,111 and only serve wines that were grown on close-planted vineyards. I wouldn’t do this because close-planted vineyards are inherently or at least necessarily better; that’s way outside my remit. I’d do it because because it’s a cool, manageable hook of an idea, and it starts a conversation. This wine was grown on a 11,111-density vineyard.

It’s a beauty. Fluid, mouthwatering, complex, delicious, perfumed, gently textural. Silt-like in its mouthfeel, painted in watercolours, boysenberry, red cherries and violets, twiggy spice, super-charged freshness, a genuinely natural feel. Love it. Want to drink it." - Campbell Mattinson (The Wine Front)

The fourth release of this wine – the 2024 Vaughn’s Jardin Gamay; 90% destemmed, whole berry natural ferment, 10% whole bunch, pressed after 14 days on skins, matured in old French oak barriques, bottled unfined and unfiltered in November 2025. Deep red/purple in colour, some smoked, charcuterie notes mingled with red and blue fruits. Velvety, soft tannins layered with minerally acidity and some hints of whole bunch stem. A wine with great depth and texture.

The background story to this wine:

One of the great joys of owning Sinapius has been witnessing the evolution of the property over the years. Sometimes these changes happen gradually, so that you hardly notice, and at other times so suddenly that you need a minute to catch your breath. A case in point was the day in September 2015 when I came home to find the front garden had been turned into a vineyard; a small block of Gamay, planted at 11,111 vines per hectare, suddenly sat picture-perfect in front of our home. Over the ensuing years Vaughn could often be found in his new ‘garden’, manicuring it within an inch of its life!

As for the fruit from this block, Vaughn always vinified it in a very traditional way; 100% whole cluster, carbonic maceration. This was inspired by his time in Beaujolais, one of his many passions.

Gazing out at the vines from my kitchen window, I sometimes wondered how it would perform if it were made like Pinot Noir ……

Like our beautiful Sinapius property, life sometimes takes unexpected turns, and I find myself in the unanticipated position of sole responsibility over our wines. It has been a fine balance continuing Vaughn’s work, but also knowing that he never stopped learning and evolving as a vigneron. At the beginning of 2021, my first vintage, I knew I needed to let those hands of change reach gently out to our wines at some point. With encouragement from my mentor Joe Holyman (“Linda, go for it!”) the Garden block felt like the right place to start.

Whilst I feel that I may have broken the rules, I think Vaughn would approve. I hope so.

Price Bracket $51 to $100
Type Red
Body Light Bodied
Variety Gamay
Country Australia
Region Tamar Valley
Australian State TAS
Feature Women in Wine
Reviewed By The Wine Front
The Weekend Australian
Critic Score 95
Alcohol 13%
Size 750ml
Vintage 2024
Closure Screw Cap

Sinapius

Sinapius is a premium boutique Tasmanian winery started by two young, passionate winemakers.

The couple, Vaughn Dell & Linda Morice, purchased the site when they were only 24-years-old and chose to plant their vines in the Burgundian fashion opting for high-density planting and low-yielding crops. Their small labour of love has budded into one of Tasmania's most exciting viticultural projects.

Vaughn passed away tragically in 2020, however, the Sinapius label continues under the guidance of Linda and the help of some loving friends. The Sinapius wines are of extremely high quality, made in small amounts and showcase their unique patch of dirt with transparency, purity and power.

Linda Morice in the Sinapius Cellar Discover Sinapius

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