2024 Mount Mary Chardonnay

98 pts
Mount Mary's restrained, detailed Yarra Chardonnay, concentrated yet delicate and built to age.

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Sale price$180.00
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Description

Max 1 bottle per customer

Mount Mary is one of the Yarra Valley's true originals. Dr John Middleton planted the vineyard at Lilydale in 1971, and the family has stuck to its Bordeaux and Burgundy-inspired ways ever since - small volumes, no fuss, and wines that age for decades. Grandson Sam Middleton now makes the wines, and his Chardonnay is easily one of the most sought-after whites in the country.

2024 was a kind season early on. A dry November meant an easy flowering and a slightly bigger crop than the previous three years. Then February and March turned warm and dry, so picking came down to catching the fruit before the acid slipped away. The wine spent 11 months in French puncheons and barriques (30% new), with plenty of time on lees.

Sam calls it a touch more restrained than the 2023, and it shows. There's a little flint and struck match up front, then white peach, pear, lime and some nutty, cashew-like richness. The palate is tight and fine, with a gentle grip and a bright, slightly salty finish that goes on and on. Lovely now with roast chicken or a piece of snapper, but it'll reward a good stint in the cellar too.

Concentrated but delicate, warm year but tight as a drum. This is Mount Mary Chardonnay at its flashy best.

98 points
"Year after year, this storied chardonnay has continued to adapt with the times and the climate, with the 2024 being truly exceptional... The taut, focused palate offers mouthwatering acidity, with an underlying power waiting to unravel."
- Ryan Montgomery (James Suckling)

97 points
"The palate is finely tuned and, while there's that typical Mount Mary concentration, it also has a delicacy that makes this appealing. Built to age superbly."
- Philip Rich (Halliday Wine Companion)

97 points
"This is both sophisticated and engaging, long and impressive. It is routinely a brilliant wine... I like it so much."
- Erin Larkin (The Wine Advocate)

96 points
"It may have been a warmer year in the Yarra, yet this is a very tight and fine wine... Outstanding."
- Gary Walsh (The Wine Front)

98 points - "Year after year, this storied chardonnay has continued to adapt with the times and the climate, with the 2024 being truly exceptional. Aromas of sliced pears, white nectarines, wet river stones, citrus and a salty mineral edge brought together with flinty reduction. The taut, focused palate offers mouthwatering acidity, with an underlying power waiting to unravel. No malolactic fermentation, which preserves the freshness, making this drinkable now yet with immense cellaring potential. Drink or hold. Screw cap." - Ryan Montgomery (James Suckling)

97 points - "Matured in French puncheons and barriques (30% new) for 11 months. Offered under both screw cap and diam. Tasted under screw cap. A bright green gold. Complex and restrained with aromas of white peach, grilled nuts, flint and subtle oyster shell. The palate is finely tuned and, while there's that typical Mount Mary concentration, it also has a delicacy that makes this appealing. Built to age superbly." - Philip Rich (Halliday Wine Companion)

97 points - "The 2024 Chardonnay, like the Triolet of the same vintage, is unbelievably concentrated and intense, both aromatically and in the mouth. It has notes of crushed nuts and white flowers, stewed green apple, saline acidity and spicy/savory phenolic structure. This is both sophisticated and engaging, long and impressive. It is routinely a brilliant wine, and since 2020, this has shown excellent restraint and composure, tension and complexity. The finish here is gentle, despite the front of the wine being intense, and the impact is one of softness. I like it so much. 13.5% alcohol, sealed under screw cap." - Erin Larkin (The Wine Advocate)

96 points - "It may have been a warmer year in the Yarra, yet this is a very tight and fine wine. About 30% new oak. Release date is October 2026. White peach, lemon and lime, cashew, a little biscuit spice and aniseed, with a fair amount of struck match, though it’s not overt or too dominating, just noted. It’s juicy, but also quite savoury, a distinct flinty grip with fine acidity threaded so neatly through the wine, a layer of cashew richness, and a bright and gently saline finish of excellent length and precision, a slight preserved lemon thing carries in the aftertaste. Outstanding." - Gary Walsh (The Wine Front)

Winemaker's Note
Perhaps a little more restrained than the 2023 release, this year's Chardonnay is pretty, delicate and detailed. The nose opens with just a hint of reduction, or struck match, though Mount Mary Chardonnay is typically more exemplary of fruit flavours and vineyard expression than of reductive aromas. It shows characters of lime, pear and stone fruit, along with secondary complexities from extended maturation on lees. On the palate, riper citrus tones lead, along with pear, lychee and green apple. There is a layered complexity to this wine, along with a subtle textural grip from skin-derived phenolics. There is both immediate appeal here and a clear capacity for development in the cellar.
Sam Middleton, Mount Mary Winemaker

Vintage
The weather in November 2023 was relatively dry, allowing for a fairly uninterrupted flowering and fruit set period. Thanks to these favourable conditions, crop levels were pleasingly a little higher than in the previous three years. October and January were particularly wet, while November and December provided some ideal growing conditions, with relatively warm, dry weather. February and March are arguably the most important months of the growing season from a wine quality and stylistic point of view, and in '24, warm and dry weather prevailed through both, accelerating sugar accumulation. Picking decisions became a balancing act between sugar levels, acid degradation and adequate phenolic ripeness.
Sam Middleton

Reviews
Matured in French puncheons and barriques (30% new) for 11 months. Offered under both screw cap and diam. Tasted under screw cap. A bright green gold. Complex and restrained with aromas of white peach, grilled nuts, flint and subtle oyster shell. The palate is finely tuned and, while there's that typical Mount Mary concentration, it also has a delicacy that makes this appealing. Built to age superbly.
97 points, Philip Rich, Halliday Wine

The 2024 Chardonnay, like the Triolet of the same vintage, is unbelievably concentrated and intense, both aromatically and in the mouth. It has notes of crushed nuts and white flowers, stewed green apple, saline acidity and spicy/savory phenolic structure. This is both sophisticated and engaging, long and impressive. It is routinely a brilliant wine, and since 2020, this has shown excellent restraint and composure, tension and complexity. The finish here is gentle, despite the front of the wine being intense, and the impact is one of softness. I like it so much. 13.5% alcohol, sealed under screw cap.
97+ points, Erin Larkin, Wine Advocate

Technical Details
Alcohol: 13.5%
Oak: French puncheons and barriques (30% new) for 11 months
Closure: Screw cap and Diam

Price Bracket $101 and Above
Type White
Body Medium Bodied
Variety Chardonnay
Country Australia
Region Yarra Valley
Australian State VIC
Feature High Score
Reviewed By Halliday Wine Companion
The Wine Advocate
The Wine Front
Critic Score 97
Alcohol 13.5%
Size 750ml
Vintage 2024
Closure Screw Cap

Mount Mary

One of the great Australian domains is in the form of its life with young Sam Middleton as head winemaker.

The list of accolades for the great Mount Mary is long and rich. They are one of the country's most celebrated and collectable family-owned estates. From the impossible balance of the iconic Quintet and Triolet blends to the scintillating Chardonnays and the rare and almost mythical Pinot Noir, there is not a hair out of place in the Mount Mary lineup.

With Sam Middleton in charge of the winemaking process, Mount Mary is entering its second golden age as one of the jewels of the Yarra Valley.

Sam Middleton (Photo Credit: Ewen Bell / Wine Australia) Mount Mary

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