2024 Joh Jos Prum Zeltinger Sonnenuhr Riesling Spatlese

96 pts
The muscular powerhouse of the lineup. Drawn from weathered blue slate right next door to Wehlen, it delivers a broader, deeply structured frame.

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Description

"The wines are a stunning collection of real thrill—wonderfully classic and so expressive."
- Anne Krebiehl MW (Vinous)

"Vintages like this have become rare in this century—ones in which full fruit ripeness combines with lightness, fine slate spice and lively acidity..."
- Stephan Reinhardt (The Wine Advocate)

The Zeltinger Sonnenuhr sits right next door to its famous Wehlen sibling, but the soil contains a significantly higher concentration of weathered blue slate, throwing up a totally different beast. Under Dr Katharina Prüm, this steep, river-facing wall produces some of the most powerful, densely structured wines in the estate's lineup.

The 2024 vintage was a classic, cooler year that demanded a slow harvest well into October. Instead of the massive, tropical warmth seen in previous decades, this vintage focuses entirely on effortless purity, charm, and structural definition. Prüm handles this style of low-alcohol, traditional Mosel winemaking better than anyone else, using native yeasts and massive patience to let the site dictate the terms.

A quick swirl shakes loose that trademark, smoky slate reduction before unlocking layers of spiced orange peel, wet river stones, and a wild herbal lift. The Spätlese sweetness is rich and deep, but it gets absolutely pinned down by an electric, crunchy clip of citrus acid and a savory, chalky grip. It feels fluid, unforced, and completely clear.

96 points - “The 2024 Riesling Zeltinger Sonnenuhr Spätlese offers wet stone and dried herbs on the nose, almost like deadnettle crushed on slate, with the tenderest smokiness. The palate then adds a gorgeous streak of ripe Reine Claude plum with a juiciness that softens the stone. It becomes agile, sinuous and animated. What lovely character, subtlety, elegance and astonishing saltiness this has that seemingly swallows most of the sweetness. Its subtle, stony length is remarkable.” - Anne Krebiehl MW, Vinous

95 points - “The apricot aromas make this Spatlese stand out from the pack in the 2024 vintage. But there’s nothing opulent about this wine in spite of the generous juiciness on the medium-bodied palate. In fact, it is sleek, focused and very crisp in the long, complete finish.” - jamessuckling.com

At this level, the Prüm wines are still light in body, but the flavour intensity and depth of character increase markedly. The Prüms describe the 2024s as both charming and classic, in a union that feels just right. There is brightness and balance here, but considerably more depth of fruit than in the Kabinett-level wines, although not overt sweetness. Instead, it is a question of more flesh, more power and, therefore, wines that can stand up to richer food. Katharina Prüm rightly sees Spätlese as one of the estate’s great food-wine categories, and in 2024 that feels especially true; although the 2024 Auslese-level wines are also remarkable food wines!

Price Bracket $101 and Above
Type White
Body Medium Bodied
Variety Riesling
Variety Style ["Sweet Riesling"]
Country Germany
Region Mosel
Feature High Score
Iconic
Women in Wine
Size 750ml
Vintage 2024
Closure Cork

Joh Jos Prum

Founded in 1911, and sporting one of the great unbroken track records for quality (save a short reprieve during World War II), J.J. Prum is one of the great wine producers of Germany, and indeed, the world.

These rare Rieslings are legendary for their incredible longevity, purity, and articulation of place. They are touted by critics as some of the finest examples of Riesling to be found anywhere on the planted. As Stephan Reinhardt once wrote, "the world always seems a better place with a glass of Prüm in hand."

The Prum family has seen the estate through three generations, with current director Dr. Katharina Prum taking hold of the reins during the 2007 harvest. With Katharina's commitment to tradition and quality from her family's label, J.J. Prum is sure to remain one of the benchmarks of the Mosel for decades to come.

Dr. Katharina Prum, Mosel Joh Jos Prum

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