2023 Vignerons Schmolzer & Brown Thorley Chardonnay

96 pts
Single vineyard Chardonnay from Tessa & Jeremy's Thorley Vineyard high above Beechworth. An outstanding and very limited second release.

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Description

Beechworth and Chardonnay are synonymous now, thanks to the great vineyards of the region (Giaconda, Sorrenberg, Domenica et al) and here's a new name to enter that class.

Thorley is a pint-sized property planted by husband and wife, Jeremy Schmolzer and Tessa Brown. It's a much higher altitude site than those names previously mention and so produces a finer, more detailed expression of Chardonnay, that's not without the classic Beechworth power.

It's long and fine, beautifully balanced and if the track record of their Brunnen Chardonnay (from the vineyard across the road) is anything to go by, it should cellar beautifully too.

Jeni Port

Jeni Port

Halliday Wine Companion 95 Points

The '22 sees a price rise and, frankly, it's easy to see why. Thorley breaks away from its usual youthful shyness and arrives fully expressive, complex and totally irresistible. Sits firmly, as usual, in the white peach and nectarine spectrum with added grapefruit pith, lemon and some gentle, biscuity oak. But it is the depth of fruit concentration and length that really impresses with beautifully integrated acidity.

Kasia Sobiesiak

Kasia Sobiesiak

The Wine Front 96 Points

What a great drink. A Chardonnay with a soul. Peach cream is the base with plenty of apples, green pears, sweet citrus, toasted cashews and almond muesli bar, a hint of sweetness, a la milk powder or milk bottle lolly. All of the above excite the nose, and the mouth waters instantly. What follows is a super fine, chalky palate, with very refreshing, yet gentle in its form, acidity, and just a sprinkle of salt, giving this wine that minerally feel you long for. Summa summarum, the picture is crystal clear—it’s a delicious wine with class and character.

Tom Kline

Tom Kline

Wine Pilot 94 Points

This blossoms beautifully in the glass. It’s tight and fine, but firm in its unfurling. Flint, fine cedar, salted pastry dough, and hard cheese rind intermingle with lemon pith and almond to set the scene. With air, more fruit presence appears in crushed green apple and lime zest, along with tonic and homemade lemonade. River stone minerality also comes through, adding interest. The palate has lovely lees-derived creaminess to fill out what would otherwise be a taut and tensile frame. Pastry dough, pear, lemon and lime zest, tonic, almond meal, and green apple skin glide through the mouth before a cut of bright lemon acidity pulls it long through the finish. This may not have the concentration of other Thorley releases due to the 2023 vintage, but the team at VS&B have still managed to craft a Chardonnay of trademark energy, tension, texture, and complexity.

Warm light straw. The nose is wholly emblematic of this very latest of cold growing seasons. White peach, yellow apple, almond blossom, light vanillin curd/ cream, warm hazelnuts and sweet warm hay. The palate is powerful yet fine, focussed with savoury length. A crystalline delight.

Price Bracket $51 to $100
Type White
Body Full Bodied
Variety Chardonnay
Country Australia
Region Beechworth
Australian State VIC
Feature High Score
Women in Wine
Reviewed By Halliday Wine Companion
Wine Pilot
The Wine Front
The Weekend Australian
Critic Score 96
95
Size 750ml
Vintage 2023
Closure Cork

Vignerons Schmölzer & Brown

Tessa and Jeremy are playing a long-game with their Vignerons Schmolzer & Brown label.

They have invested in a block of land high in the hills behind Beechworth and have planted 10,000 vines on it over the last couple of years with the plan to farm it organically. Tessa has a wealth of experience from time at Sorrenberg and Kooyong, Jeremy is an architect by trade with an eye for detail.

It comes as no surprise that the buzz around this husband and wife team is palpable and the praise is high. Max Allen called them, “one of a remarkable number of impressive new wine labels to have cropped up in Beechworth over the last five years.”

They are going to be at the forefront of Beechworth wine for many years to come.

Tessa and Jeremy in Thorley vineyard - Beechworth, VIC Vignerons Schmölzer & Brown

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