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Thistledown is the project of UK-born Masters of Wine Giles Cooke and Irish wine all-rounder Paddy Gilhooly, who fell hard for Australian vineyards early in their wine journeys. With the help of local winemakers and impeccable vineyard selections, they’ve built a reputation for Grenache that captures both the beauty and grit of McLaren Vale’s old bush vines.
The Vagabond comes from four dry-grown vineyards in Blewitt Springs, some planted back in the middle of last century on deep sands and ironstone. Each parcel is handled gently – lots of whole bunches, wild ferments in concrete and open top vats, and maturation in a mix of old puncheons and concrete egg. It’s a thoughtful approach that highlights perfume and texture rather than oak or weight.
The 2023 release feels full of energy – aromatic, layered and carried by those fine, sandy tannins that Blewitt Springs does so well. It’s medium bodied but far from simple, showing just how expressive Grenache can be when old vines and careful winemaking meet. A wine that’s immediately charming, yet clearly built to age.
95 points
"From four Blewitt Springs sites, all old, dry-grown bush vine. One parcel was fermented in a concrete pyramid with crushed fruit and whole bunches, the rest open fermented with 35% whole bunches; maturation mainly in old puncheons. 2023 has delivered grenache of beguiling perfume. In the best examples there's also depth, spice and the structural architecture to age. Such is the case here. Dusky dark rose, cherry, wild raspberry, ground cinnamon, rosehip and bergamot tea with a ferrous substratum. The tannins across the ’23 grenache bottlings at this address are excellent, assertive in a finely sandy and gently pithy way."
- Marcus Ellis (Halliday Wine Companion)
94 points
"The 2023 The Vagabond Old Vine Grenache is bottled in lighter-weight glass than the 2022 iteration—305 grams less, to be exact, and not imported glass, either. Brilliant. This 2023 Vagabond is looking so fine and crunchy, delicate and floral, silty and a little febrile. It's attractive and great. Very young, it's still in its vivid, exuberant phase. It's super. Irresistible, in fact. 14.5% alcohol, sealed under screw cap."
- Erin Larkin (The Wine Companion)
| Price Bracket | $51 to $100 |
| Type | Red |
| Body | Medium Bodied |
| Variety | Grenache |
| Country | Australia |
| Region | McLaren Vale |
| Australian State | SA |
| Reviewed By |
James Suckling The Wine Front The Real Review Halliday Wine Companion |
| Critic Score |
95 94 |
| Alcohol | 14.5% |
| Size | 750ml |
| Vintage | 2023 |
| Closure | Screw Cap |
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