2023 S.C. Pannell Old McDonald Grenache

97 pts SUCKLING TOP 100
The second-last release from Steve Pannell’s beloved old-vine Plaisted vineyard – a graceful, red-fruited Grenache that captures both history and the quiet confidence of a master at work.

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Sale price$79.00
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Description

Old McDonald is the original S.C. Pannell Grenache – the one that kicked off Steve’s long love affair with the variety. It comes from 80-year-old bush vines on the Plaisted family’s vineyard in McLaren Vale, rooted deep in ancient Maslin Sands about 80 metres above sea level. This site has been part of Steve’s story since 2004, and the 2023 release marks the penultimate vintage before the vineyard retires from his line-up.

The 2023 season followed a cool La Niña pattern, giving lower yields and slower ripening. The fruit was hand-harvested, with 12% whole bunches in the ferment, then left on skins for a couple of weeks before pressing and ageing in large, old French oak. As always, there’s nothing showy in the winemaking – just balance, patience and an eye for detail.

Compared to the darker, denser 2022, this vintage is lighter and more lifted. Red fruits, spice and rose florals lead the way, the tannins fine and savoury, the texture long and graceful. It’s a beautiful send-off for one of McLaren Vale’s defining Grenache vineyards.

97 points
"It’s a beautifully poised iteration of this cuvée, and just such a delight."
- Marcus Ellis (Halliday Wine Companion)

97 points - "From 81-year-old vines planted to deep Maslin Sands. Fermented with 12% whole bunches over two weeks, then settled in tank for a month; élevage in a 4500L old French oak vat. This is spicy, lifted, with the depth that this site always displays, the layering of fruit, spice and mineral inflection all visible, but the old-vine intensity viewed though through a cooler lens. Red fruited, with berries, cherries and pomegranate, fresh red florals, musk and blood orange, the tannins so impeccably fine and graceful, yet no less purposeful and savoury. The fruit clings to the tannins – like flesh to a cherry pit – without spilling out. It’s a beautifully poised iteration of this cuvée, and just such a delight." - Marcus Ellis (Halliday Wine Companion)

97 points - "Perfumed aromas of dried strawberries, dark cherries, cinnamon bark, blueberry bush, violets and spices. The seamless palate has a creamy texture, finely tuned tannins and bright acidity in complete harmony with a long, mouthwatering finish. From 81-year-old vines that give depth and tension to this nervy, refined grenache. Almost the purest, most refined release from Pannell’s single-vineyard range this year. Excellent. Drink or hold." - Ryan Montgomery (James Suckling)

96 points - "So pure and refined with aromas of wild raspberries, dried strawberries, cinnamon bark, pencil shavings and dried herbs. The palate is vibrant with crunchy tannins, focused acidity and a high-tension mouthfeel, showing dark cherries, hibiscus, kirsch and citrus peel. A serious yet bright and highly drinkable grenache that is built to last. Drink or hold. Screw cap." - Ryan Montgomery (James Suckling)

95 points - ""I've made this wine, by itself, since 2004. It was hard to say goodbye. It has not been easy," says Steve Pannell. The final vintage of the Old McDonald Grenache is the 2024, so this is the second-to-last release we will see from this vineyard. Its fans will mourn its passing but will find much comfort in the arms of Little Branch. Here, the 2023 Old McDonald Grenache is lighter framed and more delicate than the powerhouse 2022 tasted alongside. 2022 was such a magnificent season, and here is my fervent advice to anyone who would like to hear it: the 2022 is a vintage to cellar, while the fragrant, lighter 2023s will bring you all the pleasure in the short to medium term. The diaphanous quality of this 2023 is one of its key attributes (alongside more enhanced freshness/perceived acidity, elevated spice top notes and levity of fruit), but those seeking plushness will be looking only at the 2022. Choose your player. 14% alcohol, sealed under screw cap." - Erin Larkin (The Wine Advocate)

Customer Reviews

Customer Reviews

Based on 2 reviews
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A
Aaron v.H.
Straight to the cellar

I will be interested to see how this is holding up in 2031.

A
Anthony L.
delicious

similar but different to the Smart - both good :)

2023 Vintage
As with the year before, 2023 was a La Niña season—challenging from the start, with one of the latest harvests on record and small yields. The season was characterised by long hang times, resulting in excellent tannin development.

Plaisted’s Vineyard

80-year-old dry-grown “bush on wire” vines

50-million-year-old soils of Maslin Beach sand

80m above sea level

Farmed by Matt Hatwell

Winemaking
The fruit was hand-harvested on 3 March and delicately crushed. Fermentation took place in a single open-top stainless-steel fermenter with regular pumpovers, incorporating 12% whole bunches. The wine remained on skins for 15 days before a gentle press. It then settled in tank for 13 days before transfer to an old French oak vat for malolactic fermentation and extended maturation. The wine was racked twice and bottled without fining, additions, or adjustments on 27 May 2024.

Wine Analysis

Alcohol: 14%

pH: 3.45

Total Acidity: 5.4 g/L

Total Sulphur: 64 ppm

Tasting Note
“Like a room full of balloons ready to be squeezed: potentially loud and brash on one hand but soft and pleasant to hold in the other. The textures promote the red fruits; there’s richness, but it maintains McLaren Vale Grenache’s natural medium-bodied nature.”
– Stephen Pannell

Price Bracket $51 to $100
Type Red
Body Full Bodied
Variety Grenache
Country Australia
Region McLaren Vale
Australian State SA
Reviewed By James Suckling
The Wine Front
Halliday Wine Companion
The Wine Advocate
Critic Score 97
Alcohol 14%
Size 750ml
Vintage 2023
Closure Screw Cap

S.C. Pannell

Quite simply, Stephen Pannell is one of Australia’s finest and most imaginative winemakers. He’s a Jimmy Watson Trophy winner, a McLaren Vale Bushing King winner, a two-time Max Schubert Trophy winner, International Red Winemaker of the Year and Decanter Magazine’s 50 Most Influential Contributors to the World of Wine. Nick Stock described him as potentially “one of the greatest Australian winemakers ever to make wines in our age”.

Steve’s wines are made with modern Australian food and wine culture at the front of mind. The wines come from a range of stunning McLaren Vale and Adelaide Hills vineyards, and are made from sustainable varieties that properly suit his South Australian climate. They're built around brightness of fruit and savoury tannin structure, and whatever your poison is Steve has you covered!

He is truly one of the most forward-thinking and inspirational Australian winemakers alive today.

Visionary winemaker Stephen Charles Pannell Discover S.C. Pannell

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