Description
Julian Castagna has been farming his Beechworth vineyard biodynamically since well before it was fashionable, and the wines have a cult following because of it. His Chardonnay is an exercise in restraint rather than power, and the 2023 is a lovely example of just that.
It's single-vineyard, BD-certified and entirely estate-grown, and this is only the third vintage made that way. The vines sit on shallow granitic soil up in the Beechworth hills. Oak is kept in check at around 30% new, and the alcohol comes in at a modest 13%.
There's a gorgeous perfume here, fennel and aniseed with a herbal hint, then lemon, white peach and a nutty, creamy side. It's fleshy but tightly held by brisk acidity, with a touch of reduction tucked in at the back rather than out front, which is exactly how Julian likes it. Long, supple and properly structured. Give it a decant now, or a year or two in the cellar and it'll really hit its stride.
An elegant Beechworth Chardonnay with a lot of character, from one of Victoria's great biodynamic growers.
96 points
"The perfume in this wine makes your mouth water... So much character in this wine."
- Kasia Sobiesiak (The Wine Front)
95 points
"A subtle elegance resides here. Nothing is too loud, nothing too soft, and it is definitely in no hurry."
- Jeni Port (Halliday Wine Companion)
93 points
"A generous style without being broad or oaky. Powerful wine with a long finish."
- Huon Hooke (The Real Review)
| Price Bracket | $51 to $100 |
| Type | White |
| Body | Medium Bodied |
| Variety | Chardonnay |
| Country | Australia |
| Region | Beechworth |
| Australian State | VIC |
| Feature |
Biodynamic High Score |
| Reviewed By |
Halliday Wine Companion The Wine Front The Real Review |
| Critic Score |
96 |
| Alcohol | 13% |
| Size | 750ml |
| Vintage | 2023 |
| Closure | DIAM Cork |
Castagna
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