2022 Protero Nebbiolo

95 pts
Exceptional Adelaide Hills Nebbiolo made by S.C. Pannell, long and stately with a beautifully bitter twist.
3.3
Rated 3.3 out of 5 stars
3 Reviews

Price:
Sale price$45.00
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In stock, ready to ship
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Description

Stephen Pannell’s connection to Nebbiolo runs deep, back to his early days working in Barolo, and the Protero label is where that long obsession has truly found its home. He’s been working with fruit from the Baldasso vineyard in the Adelaide Hills since 2005 and took over the lease in 2019. Most of the site has since been replanted, but the original 1999 Nebbiolo block remains, producing some of the most convincing examples of the variety outside Piedmont.

This 2022 release captures everything Pannell believes Nebbiolo should be: varietal, textural and drinkable. It’s medium-bodied and fragrant, showing bright red fruits, raspberry and plum alongside fennel, chinotto and a faint citrus twist. There’s a savoury edge that keeps it grounded - something between cured meat and spice - without ever feeling heavy.

The tannins are classic Nebbiolo: firm, grapey and long, but handled with Pannell’s typical touch for balance. They roll through the palate in waves rather than walls, giving shape and energy instead of austerity.

It’s built to drink now, though it’ll hold easily for close to a decade. A modern Australian Nebbiolo that proves the variety has truly found a home in the Adelaide Hills.

Mike Bennie

Mike Bennie

Halliday Wine Companion 95 Points

It does both speeds of lightweight and serious with fine tannin profile. Lots of perfume, too, and a dark cherry, brambly herbal focus for descriptors. In all that, it nails the brief of proper nebbiolo, with succulence to texture, great volume of perfume, restraint in fruit character and yet finesse. Elegance personified. And beautiful drinking.

Customer Reviews

3.3
Rated 3.3 out of 5 stars
Based on 3 reviews
Total 5 star reviews: 0 Total 4 star reviews: 2 Total 3 star reviews: 0 Total 2 star reviews: 1 Total 1 star reviews: 0
3 reviews
  • G
    Geoffrey
    10 months ago
    Reviewing
    2021 Protero Nebbiolo
    Rated 2 out of 5 stars
    Acidic and bitter

    Really didn’t like this one, tried three different bottles, used the breathing device, just tasted rough and tart.

  • AS
    Alistair S.
    Verified Buyer
    2 years ago
    Reviewing
    2021 Protero Nebbiolo
    Rated 4 out of 5 stars
    Charming mini-Barolo

    A good take on Nebbiolo, not the most pliable of varieties to work with outside Piemonte. Dark cherries, smokey tea leaves, a hint of amaro and porcini. A medium weight palate, more depth to it than initially shows, taut tannin as per the variety and style. Steve Pannell’s a fine winemaker, although i sometimes wonder if he spreads his talents a bit too far.

  • SB Profile picture for Stephen B.facebook logo
    Stephen B.
    Verified Buyer
    Wine Knowledge Level Cork Dork
    3 years ago
    Wine Knowledge Level Cork Dork
    Reviewing
    2019 Protero Nebbiolo
    Rated 4 out of 5 stars
    A wonderful introduction to nebbiolo

    Steve Pannell never disappoints and at this modest price, the Protero nebbiolo gives the novice a wonderful chance to appreciate the many delights of this variety. Mid-weight at best, it is fine alternative to those pinot noir lovers looking some for something similar, but different. I bought 6 bottles about a month ago, and 3 have already disappeared.

Halliday Top 100 Wines 2025 - 95 points

There really aren't many places outside Piedmont where Nebbiolo has translocated well. This vineyard is one of those places and I am confident in stating that it may well be the ideal red grape variety for the region' SCP

Protero’s Nebbiolo represents Stephen’s understanding of tannin, a paradigm which drives all his red-winemaking decisions.

Flavour
Varietal | Pulsating | Shameless. A classic roman legionaire full of bravado and ready for a long march. Superbly medium-bodied; fresh raspberry, fennel fronds, chinotto and porchetta surrounded by plums, finishing with delicate citrus.

Texture
Energetic waves of grapey tannin that are toothsome and leathery on the mid palate before climbing accross the back palate and crashing in to a classicly long finish. The definition of naturaly derived and varietal tannin.

Cellaring
Drink now or keep for ten.

Price Bracket $41 to $50
Type Red
Body Medium Bodied
Variety Nebbiolo
Country Australia
Region Adelaide Hills
Australian State SA
Feature High Score
Reviewed By Halliday Wine Companion
Critic Score 95
Size 750ml
Vintage 2022
Closure Screw Cap

S.C. Pannell

Quite simply, Stephen Pannell is one of Australia’s finest and most imaginative winemakers. He’s a Jimmy Watson Trophy winner, a McLaren Vale Bushing King winner, a two-time Max Schubert Trophy winner, International Red Winemaker of the Year and Decanter Magazine’s 50 Most Influential Contributors to the World of Wine. Nick Stock described him as potentially “one of the greatest Australian winemakers ever to make wines in our age”.

Steve’s wines are made with modern Australian food and wine culture at the front of mind. The wines come from a range of stunning McLaren Vale and Adelaide Hills vineyards, and are made from sustainable varieties that properly suit his South Australian climate. They're built around brightness of fruit and savoury tannin structure, and whatever your poison is Steve has you covered!

He is truly one of the most forward-thinking and inspirational Australian winemakers alive today.

Visionary winemaker Stephen Charles Pannell Discover S.C. Pannell

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