2022 Bodegas Exopto Rioja Horizonte de Exopto Blanco

93 pts
A taut, mineral white Rioja from old high-altitude vines – modern in feel, but with real respect for site and tradition.

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Sale price$39.00
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Description

The 2022 Horizonte de Exopto Blanco is a fresh, finely tuned white Rioja from one of the region’s most progressive small producers. Bodegas Exopto is all about site expression and thoughtful blending, and this cuvée shows exactly how they do it – combining old-vine Viura and Garnacha Blanca from high-altitude, north-facing vineyards in Ábalos and San Vicente for purity, texture and drive.

Fermentation takes place in a mix of concrete, stainless steel and older French oak barrels, with wild yeast and minimal intervention. There’s no flash or obvious oak influence here – just clean fruit, gentle lees work and a savoury edge that gives the wine depth without heaviness. The 2022 vintage is especially bright, with citrus, white florals and a chalky backbone carrying through a long, dry finish.

It’s not your typical creamy white Rioja – this is tighter, more focused, and aimed squarely at the table. One for the Chablis and white Burgundy crowd who want to explore something different, but equally serious.

93+ points
"The wine is expressive, harmonious, clean and quite fruit-driven and refreshing... finishing with a salty twist. It's approachable but should last in bottle."
- Luis Gutiérrez (The Wine Advocate)

93 points
"It offers enticing aromas of honey and pineapple, with hints of fennel, cedar and caramel... a dry and creamy profile, with an oily and vibrant texture... showcasing the best of both worlds."
- Joaquín Hidalgo (Vinous)

92 points
"Focused, nuanced and well balanced... subtle wood spices, notes of aniseed, lanolin and citrus and a hint of cream."
- Tim Atkin MW (Rioja Report 2024)

93+ points - "The white 2022 Horizonte de Exopto Blanco was produced with the grapes from the white varieties that are planted scattered among the reds in the old vineyards on the poorer soils, mostly Viura with some 10% Garnacha Blanca and 5% Malvasía Riojana. It has 13% alcohol and very good freshness and acidity for such a warm year. The wine is expressive, harmonious, clean and quite fruit-driven and refreshing. It's balanced and super tasty, finishing with a salty twist. It's approachable but should last in bottle." - Luis Gutiérrez (The Wine Advocate)

93 points - "As a member of the Rioja'n'Roll producer collective, Exopto embodies innovative ideas in Rioja winemaking. The 2022 Blanco Horizonte de Exopto is a prime example of this innovation. This blend consists of 85% Viura, 10% Malvasia and 5% Garnacha Blanca, sourced from San Vicente, Ábalos and Baños de Ebro in Rioja Alta and Alavesa. Aged for ten months, including time in foudres (50%), French oak barrels (30%) and concrete egg-shaped vats, the resulting wine displays a yellow hue in the glass. It offers enticing aromas of honey and pineapple, with hints of fennel, cedar and caramel. On the palate, it presents a dry and creamy profile, with an oily and vibrant texture that lingers with prominent wood notes. This wine beautifully combines the new terroir-driven approach with well-calibrated aging techniques, showcasing the best of both worlds." - Joaquín Hidalgo (Vinous)

92 points - "Tom Puyaubert has always had a sensitive touch with his whites, exemplified by the quality of this medley of Viura, 10% Malvasía and 5% Garnacha Blanca. Focused, nuanced and well balanced, it has subtle wood spices, notes of aniseed, lanolin and citrus and a hint of cream." - Tim Atkin MW (Rioja Report 2024)

Importer Notes:

This exceptional, rocky white Rioja goes from strength to strength. Today the blend comprises 85% Viura with 10% Malvasía Riojana and 5% Garnacha Blanca. The grapes are drawn mostly from the cool, high country of Ábalos, including the old-vine vineyards of San Cristobel (650 metres) and Perquita, planted in 1965. From 2022, the wine now benefits from a portion of 75-year-old Viura from Baños de Ebro. Fermented wild in concrete, the wine was then raised in a mixture of eggs, old barrels and 4,000-litre foudre as Puyaubert seeks to harness the mineral salinity and tension gifted by the rocky limestone soils and old vines in his highland vineyards. As always, it’s a shining example of new-wave Rioja Blanco.

Price Bracket $31 to $40
Type White
Body Medium Bodied
Variety Viura
Country Spain
Region Rioja
Reviewed By The Wine Advocate
Vinous
Critic Score 93
Size 750ml
Vintage 2022
Closure Cork

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