2024 Sinapius Close Planted Pinot Noir

96 pts
Tasmania's most densely planted Pinot Noir, from two extraordinary high-altitude blocks with volcanic soils and yields that border on the ridiculous.

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Description

The two blocks behind this wine, La Clairière and The Enclave, are planted to 7,700 vines per hectare on volcanic soils in the Pipers River. That's serious Grand Cru-level density, and it shows in the yields: less than half a kilo per vine. Twelve different Pinot clones, north-east facing aspect, dry-grown. This ambitious setup from the late Vaughn Dell has taken years to get right, but now produces very small amounts of something genuinely special.

Vaughn's life and business partner Linda Morice makes this the same way each vintage: 100% whole berries, gently destemmed, wild ferment over three weeks, then 12 months in French oak with 20% new. Five months in tank after that to settle and come together before bottling. No fining, no filtration. The two blocks get blended because the wine is always better that way than either on its own.

The 2024 is a wine that needs a bit of time to open up and show what it's made of. There's red fruit and wild herb character at the core, a savory earthiness underneath, and tannins that are fine but firm. Surprisingly nimble and approachable now we thought, though it will only get better with a few years in the cellar.

The flagship red from Sinapius, and one of Tassie's most important and ambitious Pinot projects.

96 points
" A wine of real tension, appropriate for one of the great high-wire acts of Australian wine."
- Nick Ryan (The Weekend Australian)

95 points
"This wine will age and develop like a dream. Undergrowth and dark chocolate notes whisper throughout, adding to the more. This is a highly impressive release."
- Campbell Mattinson (The Wine Front)

94 points
"Serious wine, depth and freshness... Fragrant as all get out, a bright, distinct, red cherry fruitiness through the wine... Very proper."
- Mike Bennie (The Wine Front)

96 points - "Many said they were mad planting pinot at such high density in Pipers Brook. Yields of 500g a vine in ’24 suggested sceptics were right. But one moment with this wine proves otherwise. Swirling dark berries, flickers of red, some rubbed rosemary and mace, mulberry and clove. A wine of real tension, appropriate for one of the great high-wire acts of Australian wine." - Nick Ryan (The Weekend Australian)

95 points - "There’s a good deal of whole bunch character here, and in combination with the fruit, structure and length it makes for a ripping wine. Earth, spice, leaf and general autumnal notes tumble enthusiastically through dark, almost brambly fruit, spice-laden highlights then adding the icing. There’s a sense of detail to this wine, and drama, set within a ripe, persistent, impressive whole. This wine will age and develop like a dream. Undergrowth and dark chocolate notes whisper throughout, adding to the more. This is a highly impressive release." - Campbell Mattinson (The Wine Front)

94 points - "Serious wine, depth and freshness, that peppery element as veins, a herbal lift, a crispness to texture, a lick of talc and pumice stone in that texture. Fragrant as all get out, a bright, distinct, red cherry fruitiness through the wine. Spicy through the finish, if not very spicy, smoked paprika and an almost jalapeno lingering. Lots of fruit and that spice hanging off the architecture of the tannin web and weave. Very proper." - Mike Bennie (The Wine Front)

The 2024 had a quiet authority, with above-average temperatures and drier growing conditions. Our earliest harvest on record saw fruit picked on the 6th, 7th and 13th of March. Sourced from our two close-planted Pinot Noir blocks, The Enclave and La Clairière, the vines carried exceptionally small crops — just 0.5kg per vine — which is phenomenal, even by our standards. Close planted, dry grown, and low yielding, the wine reflects this restraint naturally.

85% de-stemmed, 15% whole bunch, wild fermented for 15-17 days before pressing. Matured in a combination of French oak barriques and puncheons, 20% new. The wines remains in oak on fine lees for 12 months where is undergoes natural malolactic fermentation in spring. The wine is blended to tank after 12 months, then given a further 6 months to integrate and clarify naturally prior to bottling.

Deep red in the glass, a step up from the previous vintage in both intensity and depth, the aromatics feel grounded. Ripe red plums and dark red berries sit at the core, threaded with a quiet whiff of whole bunch that adds subtle spice. Earth and undergrowth seep through, while the ferrosol soils speak clearly, bringing that iron-rich, red earth drive that comes when the vineyard is working hard.

The palate is dense and compact, yet so precise. Smoked red meats, dried herbs brushed lightly across the fruit, and a fine graphite line shape the wine, while super fine, tensile tannins flow beautifully across the palate. There’s complexity, but in an effortless way — a wine shaped more by site and season than by hand.

Complete and composed, with an intensity this is a true expression of the vineyard in 2024. Just superb.

Price Bracket $51 to $100
Type Red
Body Medium Bodied
Variety Pinot Noir
Country Australia
Region Tamar Valley
Australian State TAS
Feature Women in Wine
Reviewed By The Wine Front
The Weekend Australian
Critic Score 96
Alcohol 13%
Size 750ml
Vintage 2024
Closure Screw Cap

Sinapius

Sinapius is a premium boutique Tasmanian winery started by two young, passionate winemakers.

The couple, Vaughn Dell & Linda Morice, purchased the site when they were only 24-years-old and chose to plant their vines in the Burgundian fashion opting for high-density planting and low-yielding crops. Their small labour of love has budded into one of Tasmania's most exciting viticultural projects.

Vaughn passed away tragically in 2020, however, the Sinapius label continues under the guidance of Linda and the help of some loving friends. The Sinapius wines are of extremely high quality, made in small amounts and showcase their unique patch of dirt with transparency, purity and power.

Linda Morice in the Sinapius Cellar Discover Sinapius

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