2024 Giant Steps Bastard Hill Vineyard Chardonnay

97 pts
Remarkable second release from Giant Steps, reinvigorating this iconic Yarra Valley site.

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Description

97 points
"Precise and mineral driven... This will age slowly but surely over the next decade. There's only 200 dozen made in '24..."
- Philip Rich (Halliday Wine Companion)

Bastard Hill may be the most aptly named site in the Yarra. Brutally steep and tough to farm, but it rewards the effort with Chardonnay of rare definition and drive. Originally planted for sparkling in 1986 by Ray Guerin, this is now one of the region’s great cool-climate sites - perched at 300–400m on volcanic loam, tucked deep in Gladysdale.

The 2024 release is only the second under Giant Steps’ stewardship and it’s already clear: this vineyard is a powerhouse. A compressed growing season delivered small bunches and piercing natural acidity. The fruit was whole-bunch pressed to 500L puncheons, where it fermented wild. Only a quarter of the wine went through malo, dialling up tension rather than softening the edges.

It smells like crushed seashells and citrus pith, with pink grapefruit, green apple skin, and flint in behind. The palate is linear and racy - lemon peel and pear over a mineral core, with just enough texture to flesh it out. It’s razor-sharp, pure, and built for the long haul.

Bastard by name, elite by nature. This is a new star in the Giant Steps Chardonnay lineup.

97 points - "A 11.5ha vineyard planted in '87 in Gladysdale at 400m with roughly 60% planted to chardonnay. Precise and mineral driven, with aromas of just-ripened orchard fruits, lemon zest and a touch of struck match. A slow but steady burn on the very persistent palate, culminating in a long, structured and saline finish. This will age slowly but surely over the next decade. There's only 200 dozen made in '24, illustrating the lengths that Giant Steps are taking to protect the brand." - Philip Rich (Halliday Wine Companion)

97 points - "Light, bright colour. Smoked charcuterie, lemonade and dried herbs to sniff, big on matchstick reductive character; the palate is intense and focused, with lovely concentration allied to refinement and a long, long aftertaste. Lemon/citrus and lots of subtle spicy detail. Seriously smart chardonnay which will reward keeping although it's lovely now." - Huon Hooke (The Real Review)

96 points - "I loved the 2023 release but this 2024 version is dramatically different and, yet still, dramatically good. The 2023 release was piercing but there’s a delicacy to this wine. Bacon, wax, oyster shell, white peach and salted citrus, with almond paste as the lightest of infusions. This is such a complete wine. If you thought that Bastard Hill was exciting as a concept, this is Bastard Hill as exciting in the glass. It’s the elegance of Australian chardonnay at a high point. It has the flavour and the texture and the focus and all those things. But it’s a wine with a vibe and a lilt and a loveliness that runs the length of it." - Campbell Mattinson (The Wine Front)

Price Bracket $51 to $100
Type White
Body Full Bodied
Variety Chardonnay
Country Australia
Region Yarra Valley
Australian State VIC
Feature Women in Wine
High Score
Reviewed By Halliday Wine Companion
The Wine Front
Size 750ml
Vintage 2024
Closure Screw Cap

Giant Steps

Giant Steps is a premium Yarra Valley outfit founded by Phil Sexton and located in the township of Healesville. Beginning with the vision of original head winemaker Steve Flamsteed, Giant Steps developed an international reputation for producing some of Australia's finest examples of single vineyard Pinot Noir & Chardonnay.

In 2021 the exceptionally talented Melanie Chester joined the team as the new head of winemaking and viticulture, marking an exciting new chapter in this elite producer's story.

Every aspect of the Giant Steps process is geared towards making truly world-class wines from the vineyard to the final bottled wine. The focus is on what the Yarra does best - Pinot Noir, Chardonnay, Shiraz/Syrah and Bordeaux-variety blends - and showcasing the unique terroirs of some of the region's finest vineyards.

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