2023 LVDO Shiraz Rose

96 pts
One of the more serious Rose wines in Australia made in a unique style.

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Sale price$50.00
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Description

Marcell Kustos is on a mission to craft one of the finest blush wines in Australia, and in the 2023 LVDO Shiraz Rosé you can see his ambitious project is well on its way.

Sourced from a certified organic, dry-grown vineyard in Sellicks Hill, McLaren Vale, this wine is built on a foundation of precision and creativity. The sandy soils of the vineyard, planted in 1990, lend finesse to the fruit, while Marcell’s meticulous winemaking elevates the style to new heights. Whole-bunch pressing, wild fermentation, and 11 months in 15+ year-old puncheons and barriques bring texture and complexity. A 10% perpetual reserve, aged under flor since 2021, adds an extra layer of savoury depth rarely seen in Australian rosé.

The result is a wine that’s both elegant and serious. Aromas of wild red berries, citrus peel, and dried herbs lead to a palate that’s finely textured, savoury, and endlessly complex. Bright acidity carries through to a long, refined finish, making this a rosé that rewards contemplation as much as casual enjoyment.

With the 2023 Shiraz Rosé, LVDO sets a new benchmark for what Australian rosé can be—thoughtful, expressive, and unapologetically ambitious.

96 points
"It’s a celebration of artfully handled fruit and deliberate, chiselled handling in the winery. Superb. Drink now with almost any dish you can think of. I’d go for mussel in white wine and frits."
- Shanteh Wale (Wine Pilot)

95 points
"Thoroughly individual. Not for everyone. Nor is it meant to be. It’s very good though, and it will likely age very well, too."
- Marcus Ellis (Halliday Wine Companion)

94 points
"It feels like a wine that's made with a distinct style in mind, and that's a good thing for me. Complex, a whole lot of stuff happening here. Different, but very good."
- Gary Walsh (The Wine Front)

93 points
"This has a lot of interest, set to an alternative kind of rosé style with complexity as a byword. Delightful drinking."
- Mike Bennie (Halliday)

95 points - "From certified organic, dry-grown shiraz vines, 18 months in barrel, with 10% perpetual reserve aged under flor. This is the reserve version of acclaimed sommelier (and Dr of wine sensory science) Marcel Kustos’ rosé. It’s a tiny production, which the hand-applied Dymo reserve sash attests to. The colour is something like burnt orange with red tints, the nose stripped back from overtly fruity notes, though ample cherry, strawberry, redcurrant and pomegranate lurk within, the savouriness of long barrel ageing, positive touches of aldehyde and chalky, waxy, nutty flor notes taking the lead. The fruit is amply there, swelling on the palate, a textural swirl arrested from looseness by the tail of those savoury elements, with fine tannin in support. Thoroughly individual. Not for everyone. Nor is it meant to be. It’s very good though, and it will likely age very well, too." - Marcus Ellis (Halliday Wine Companion)

94 points - “Peach, ripe strawberry, orange peel, almond friand, some mint and chamomile. It’s a rich and nutty wine, lots of poached strawberry and almond meal, blood orange, quite slippery and saline, with some sweetness, a little kombucha tang, no shortage of flavour here, fine chalky tannin, then acidity offers some bite, but that generosity of flavour is quite a thing. It doesn’t hold back on that front. It feels like a wine that’s made with a distinct style in mind, and that’s a good thing for me. Complex, a whole lot of stuff happening here. Different, but very good.” - Gary Walsh (The Wine Front)

93 points - “The wine opens with an attractive, if not somewhat sweet, perfume – red cherry, raspberry, rosehip tea, a touch of brioche and faint sea spray notes. The palate is somewhat similar, with more pronounced savoury nuttiness, green almond and cashew, and a briny mineral undertow, finishing deep, chalky and refreshing. This has a lot of interest, set to an alternative kind of rosé style with complexity as a byword. Delightful drinking.” - Mike Bennie (Halliday)

96 points - “Fruit is beautifully ripe with a lick of wild strawberry and raspberry compote, tangerine acidity and a fine mesh of subtle tannins. Flavour for days and a lovely dry and savoury cured jamon finish. This wine continues to evolve its style, by tweaking one chosen element at a time. It’s a celebration of artfully handled fruit and deliberate, chiselled handling in the winery. Superb. Drink now with almost any dish you can think of. I’d go for mussel in white wine and frits.” - Shanteh Wale (Wine Pilot)

2023 Vintage
• Region: Sellicks Hill, McLaren Vale
• Alcohol: 12.6% ABV
• Volume: 750 mL

Over the years, I drew inspiration from various wine styles—sparkling, white, rosé, red, and fortified—to craft a collectible rosé. I searched for the right vineyard and ultimately selected a sandy vineyard in Sellicks Hill (McLaren Vale), planted in 1990, dry-grown, and certified organic.

The winemaking process for the 2023 vintage represents the culmination of techniques I have refined since 2021. The grapes were whole-bunch pressed, wild-fermented, and aged in various ancient barrels (puncheon and barrique over 15 years old) with an extended élevage of 11 months—longer than in previous years.

In 2021, I began a perpetual reserve aged under flor to introduce complexity, savouriness, and texture, akin to the perpetual reserves used in Grower Champagne. This reserve contributes 10% to the 2023 rosé, enhancing its character.

While this wine offers a different style compared to most Australian rosés, every step in its creation was intentional and deliberate, resulting in a serious and complex wine.

Price Bracket $41 to $50
Type Rosé
Body Full Bodied
Variety Shiraz
Country Australia
Region McLaren Vale
Australian State SA
Feature High Score
Reviewed By Halliday Wine Companion
The Wine Front
Wine Pilot
Critic Score 96
94
93
95
Size 750ml
Vintage 2023
Closure Cork

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