2022 Margan Breaking Ground Semillon

A softer more textural style of hunter Semillon, made for earlier approachability.

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3rd generation winemaker Ollie Margan is trying to convey a more modern approach to Hunter wines with the Breaking Ground series under the Margan family label. This, his take on a regional classic, is a rounder softer wine.

Have no doubt, the wine has all the hallmark characters of Hunter Semillon, yet there is more weight on the mid-palate, and it’s framed with a fuller, mouth-filling structure.

While this wine is built to be a more fulfilling drink in its youth, it still retains the classic ageability that Hunter Sem in known for.

2022, another La Nina and mild, wet vintage for us in the Hunter Valley. A few key differences resulted in a stronger harvest for Broke Fordwich in 2022, than in 2021. The rain hitting later (March) and no hail events (Boxing Day 2020) meant that we saw extended hang time of fruit with slow sugar accumulation and reduced disease pressure regarding botrytis. Subsequently, grapes were harvested with better phenolic resolution. Even at lower baume’s and relatively high naturally acidity, greater balance and harmony in fruit flavour/chemistry was generally observed across whites and reds.

With reference to the 2021 Breaking Ground wines, the preferred style qualities across the range were amplified in this release. Texture was boosted to sit more in line with acidity and phenolic accumulation via skins/oxygen interaction was heavier handed this time around. A few side steps with vineyard choice and the odd switch up in fermentation vessel as well as a rose in the mix this vintage.

91 points - "A portion sees a week skin fermented, the rest in stainless steel and all wild fermented. Texture the pursuit. Also hangs out on lees and is bottled un-fined and unfiltered. Funny thing about skin fermentation is is that it usually requires a bit more skin ripeness to make an impact and goes pretty well with bigger flavour; here we’re at 10.4% alcohol and light fruit characters so it kind of goes missing. Anyways, I like the gist.

Has an attractive, refreshing, light lemon juice in mineral water feel with a touch of saline tang and faint flinty mineral characters. Nice squeakiness to texture, albeit pretty gentle, and the wine has some of the light and fine DNA of pedigree Hunter Sem in tingly, tense acidity under the delicate, washy fruit characters. It’s a summery, attractive drink, albeit a bit painted in water colours. That being said, I would so go here." - Mike Bennie (The Wine Front)

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