2021 Brash Higgins ZBO Zibibbo

One of the few Zibibbos in Aus made with a clear vision and brilliant execution. It’s out there and enormous fun to drink.

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Description

Brad Hickey’s love for the weird and wonderful in the world of wine seems to know no bounds. And his ‘ZBO’ (Zibibbo Amphora) is as weird and wonderful as they come.

For those unfamiliar with Zibibbo, it is an ancient member of the muscat family, originating in the Mediterranean which has found a new home in South Australia. The fruit for this is sourced from Ricca Terra Farms in the warm and sunny Riverland. But what really distinguishes this wine is the winemaking behind it: the giant golf ball sized berries are hand-picked and destemmed into 200l clay amphorae eggs where the wine sits on skins for 6 months.

It's a cloudy, unique wine, but incredibly well executed. Brad picked a little earlier this year so it's a little tighter than past releases but no less interesting. Interesting and delicious, that’s this ‘ZBO’.

Zibibbo is an ancient, aromatic white grape from the Muscat family grown in the warmth of the Mediterranean and South Australia. From fruit grown at Ricca Terra Farms in the sunny Riverland, the varietal was chosen for its potential to develop length and complexity from longer skin contact, the wine is fruity yet bone dry; reminiscent of something from Alice in Wonderland, where things aren't always as they seem.

Hand picked, the golf ball sized, bronze fruit was destemmed into waiting terracotta amphorae. A wild ferment ensued with the caps hand plunged twice daily until the ferment finished and the skins sank into the wine. The skins, seeds and juice remained covered in situ for six months. A natural FLOR layer of yeast volunteers itself and covers and helps protect the wine. The 'free run' was siphoned off in spring and combined with the pressings. The wine settles before being racked and sent to bottle unfiltered and unfined.

Cloudy and a diaphanous, pale copper in appearance. The wine is dry yet exudes tantalising herbal, spice and stone fruit aromas. Complex nose of apricot, graphite/pencil shavings, cut ginger, cloves, elderflower, white pepper, Belgian white ale, and wild honey leaps from the glass. On the palate, the wine has a soft entry but with good grip, an earthy sweet chalk/clay element with notes of lemon oil, tangerines, tea and cinnamon apples..

Brash Higgins

Brash Higgins is the label of winemaking American-turned-honorary-Aussie, Brad Hickey.

In his former life, Hickey was one of America's top sommeliers, working for many years crafting some of New York's finest wine lists. He came to Australia and fell in love with McLaren Vale and local vigneron Nicole Thorpe, with whom he now produces highly characterful, minimalist wines from their much loved Omensetter vineyard.

Hickey's wines are extremely expressive. They fall in two camps - the wines sourced from Omensetter vineyard and those sourced from friends around the Vale and the warm, dry Riverlands.

Brad Hickey AKA Brash Higgins - McLaren Vale, SA Brash Higgins

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