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Topper's Mountain like to do things just a little bit different. Maybe it's their proximity to the rest of the Australian wine growing community, being located in New England on the Great Dividing Range in northern NSW. Maybe it's the free thinking of their owner/winemaker Mark Kirkby. Whatever it is, there are some seriously interesting and exciting wines coming out of this stable and if you are a fan of the hidden gems of Aussie wine, you need some Topper's in your cellar... This is the second ever release of their wildly successful Barrel Ferment Gewürztraminer. This is one of the most talked about Gewürz wines in the country and with good reason, it has earth shattering power and intensity - the kind of white that blows your hair back Gewürz is divisive. Some love it, some don't. This is Gewürz like you've probably never seen it. It has power, and presence and most importantly, it is as delicious as it is interesting.
What it Tastes Like
Little toasty seasoning of vanilla but at no point does the oak get in the road. Turkish delight, little honey, marsapam and musk scents. Creamy with a crack of acid through the palate and hint of oak tannin. Loaded with texture and ripples with waves for flavour. The persistence is pretty amazing. Super interesting. Tops food wine.
92 points. "Ultra spicy, almost ouchy in the mouth with tactile heat and pepperiness, but that cool, soothing fruitiness is instant salve and complexity. It’s heady in gewurz scents of decaying flowers, bubblegum, Turkish Delight, yet there’s elements of nuttiness and woody scents too. Lush! The wine does well in the drinkability stakes, finishing fresh and relatively dry. Lots packed into its frame, it’s quite the sweet-fruited delight to drink. Very good example." - Mike Bennie (The Wine Front) 93 points. "This is the best Gewurz in Australia. Top of the list. King of the hill. A number one… What’s even better is how unlikely it is. An unheralded region (and one of the nation’s youngest), from a vineyard planted to a whole smorgasbord of grapes, and a maligned variety. I think the success of the Topper’s Gewurz even surprised vigneron Mark Kirby. It was meant to be. One caveat – I am a flag-waving Gewurz fan. This intriguing grape has been bastardised over many years, but in its most classic form, the aromatic and phenolic slippery dip of Gewurz is just fantastic. Sadly, you just don’t see it respected all that often. Even at Topper’s you can see that they’re still tinkering with the variety, with this wine only the second released of a ‘barrel style’ Gewurz. Combine that newness with vintage variation and you’ve got potential for sweet and sour lychee juice. But none of that here – this is delicious wine. As ever, the aromatic appeal is immense. Musk is the driver, alongside stonefruit (maybe apricot or peach) skins, before a palate that is crisp and dry, yet not awkward. Nor is it overly backward, which is the temptation with Gewurz – pick it early, work to preserve the aromatics in the winery and then use residual sugar to give weight. Instead, the fruit is riper, the palate given breadth by barrel influences, and a phenolic zipper pulling things together. I like this. The push-pull of firm acidity and fruits aplenty works. I like how it sings its variety, yet finishes crisp. Sure, I get that most people won’t love it, but I’m a fan, and I genuinely like drinking it." - Andrew Graham (Oz Wine Review)
Closure: Screw Cap
Bottle Size: 750ml
Drink Until: 2022
About the Producer
Nestled in the relatively low-profile wine region of New England along the Great Dividing Range, this little gem of a winery is in Campbell Mattinson’s opinion “…one of NSW’s most interesting producers.”
Their vineyard producers some very ‘alternative’ stuff. From Gewurztraminer to Pinotage and an array of other wacky (and delicious) grapes, this is no gimmick but a serious exploration of what best suits their unique climate. They rightfully have amassed a huge cult following and have been admired for their ‘out of the box’ thinking by some of Australia’s most influential wine writers. These wines are as interesting as they come.
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