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Barossa Shiraz plays very nicely when in the hands of winemakers from cooler climates.
Here, Candice and Frewin handle the fruit of Andy Kalleske with aplomb. Yes, it’s a ripe, richly flavoured wine but it’s also tempered by savoury elements.
The couple describe the 2015 release as “Dark and bold, yet elegant and feminine, she is all power and soul.”
It’s a great thing to drink, now or in a decade’s time. As Campbell Mattinson mentioned in his 93 point review, “Fair to say there’s a lot of pleasure to be tucked into here.”
What It Tastes Like
“Shiraz from the Ebenezer sub-region of the Barossa Valley. Unfined and unfiltered. It’s a big wine but it’s not a simple one. It has a real kick of alcohol too so be careful. Deli meat and clove characters slide through blackberry and bitumen. The mid palate is sweet and ripe, almost syrupy, but the edges are woodier, spicier, gamier. There are floral highlights too. Fair to say there’s a lot of pleasure to be tucked into here.” - Campbell Mattinson (The Wine Front)
93 points. “Shiraz from the Ebenezer sub-region of the Barossa Valley. Unfined and unfiltered. It’s a big wine but it’s not a simple one. It has a real kick of alcohol too so be careful. Deli meat and clove characters slide through blackberry and bitumen. The mid palate is sweet and ripe, almost syrupy, but the edges are woodier, spicier, gamier. There are floral highlights too. Fair to say there’s a lot of pleasure to be tucked into here.”
- Campbell Mattinson (The Wine Front)
Andy Kalleske grows our Cemetery Vineyard Shiraz.
Site location: Ebenezer – Barossa Valley
Map coordinates: -34.400246,139.001391
Rows: 25 to 28
Elevation: 280 meters
Aspect: North West facing
Harvest: 19th February 2015
Soil: Clay loam topsoil over deep red clay and ironstone - the ancient tight red clays restrict vine growth, increasing the intensity of flavour and colour in the fruit.
Picked in the cool of the morning and gently destemmed to preserve whole berries.
Fermented in an open top tank with a light hand plunge two to three times daily.
Basket pressed directly to oak with three weeks’ barrel fermentation followed by 10 months’ maturation in oak - 80% French, 20% American, with 20% new oak.
Unfined, unfiltered and vegan.
Bottled on 15th February 2016, 141 dozen produced.
Never on the shy side, the Cemetery Shiraz bears all. Rich and concentrated, dried fig, blackberry, blackcurrant and cinnamon. The palate is velvety and smooth with pops of red current. Dark and bold, yet elegant and feminine, she is all power and soul.
Drinking: Ready now or cellar to 2030, perhaps beyond.
Alcohol: 15% alc/vol
Closure: Screw Cap
Bottle Size: 750ml
Drink Until: 2027
About the Producer
The CRFT story is exciting, and I just love everything about it. Husband and wife team of Frewin Ries and Candice Helbig both gained extensive winemaking experience for large companies like Cloudy Bay (Frewin) and Hardys (Helbig), before launching into CRFT with the 2013 vintage. They only produce tiny volumes of all their wines, and their philosophy is all about minimally interfered with single vineyard wines that truly express their time and place. High quality, individual wines.
The Barossa has a big reputation. Big in every sense of the word. Known for producing blockbusting examples of impenetrable old vine Shiraz and Grenache envied by much of the world, it is a region that should be celebrated as the region that first put Australian wine on the map. Now, with a new generation of winemakers reinventing the region, there’s more than just power in the Barossa’s bag of tricks. With a move toward picking earlier and pulling back on oak maturation, there’s a fresher, more subtle side to Barossa wine which offers plenty to the modern Australian wine lover.
Long held up to the rest of the world as Australia’s flagship red variety, the mighty Australian Shiraz has undergone something of a renaissance over the past two decades. While our robust styles of Shiraz from powerhouse South Australian regions such as the Barossa Valley and McLaren Vale may have put Australian wine on the map, Shiraz from our cooler regions are giving the variety a new look. Wines from Canberra, all parts of Victoria, the Adelaide Hills, and the Great Southern, are all delivering wines of finesse and spice set to a lighter framework. The tapestry of Australian Shiraz is richly diverse, and will only continue to develop and mature into the future.
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