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For a winemaker just dipping his toe into the world as a solo producer, Pete Hiscock has released a brilliant suite of wines from 2014.
Three wines. Each an absolute pearler.
This is his Mataro from only 17-year-old vines in the Barossa. It has lift and spice with oak playing only a low-key role. Pete says this shows the “darker more animalistic side” of the variety. Campbell Mattinson agreed that it was delicious drinking saying, “the overall effect thoroughly charming.” - 93 points.
With only 47 dozen released, this is the most limited of the Rock of Wisdom wines. If you want to try it, you’ll have to be quick.
What It Tastes Like
“It has a brightness. It’s both leathery and sweet berried with plenty of clove and five-spice characters, the overall effect thoroughly charming. There’s a jubeyness here, an exuberance. Oak plays little role. Positives abound.” - Campbell Mattinson (The Wine Front)
93 points. “From the Koonunga Hill sub-region. 17-year-old vines. 10 months in old French oak. 47 dozen released.
It has a brightness. It’s both leathery and sweet berried with plenty of clove and five-spice characters, the overall effect thoroughly charming. There’s a jubeyness here, an exuberance. Oak plays little role. Positives abound.”
- Campbell Mattinson (The Wine Front)
92 points “This Mataro is sourced from a 17yo vineyard at Koonunga in the Barossa. Fruit is picked and cold soaked for a day, then wild fermented before 10 months maturation in oak. Bottled unfined and unfiltered with minimal sulphur.
What I like here is the vitality. It smells surprisingly juicy (not always the case with notoriously reductive Mataro) yet still with a pink lamb meatiness (a little whole bunch action?) and a suggestion of vanilla oak. It tastes expansive, lively and ripe – but not heavy – with an unfettered exuberance that is so enjoyable. None of the dour Mataro about it. It’s not an ultra-long style, but you want to keep drinking it. Good stuff. Best drinking: 2017-2027. Would I buy it? You know what, I would. I’d grab this off a list for sure.”
- Andrew Graham (Oz Wine review)
This wine will make you want to walk out into a paddock and hug a cow.
The Koonunga region gives rise the darker more animalistic side of Mataro.
17 year old vines
Old French oak
Closure: Screw Cap
Bottle Size: 750ml
The Barossa has a big reputation. Big in every sense of the word. Known for producing blockbusting examples of impenetrable old vine Shiraz and Grenache envied by much of the world, it is a region that should be celebrated as the region that first put Australian wine on the map. Now, with a new generation of winemakers reinventing the region, there’s more than just power in the Barossa’s bag of tricks. With a move toward picking earlier and pulling back on oak maturation, there’s a fresher, more subtle side to Barossa wine which offers plenty to the modern Australian wine lover.
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