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Crittenden Estate boldly takes on the famous Vin Jaune wine style here and knocks it out of the park.
This is Savagnin fermented naturally, aged in barrel under flor for four years before release. No additions were made at any point, the veil of live yeast acting as the juice’s only protection against the outside world.
This is the best example of the Vin Jaune wine style made anywhere in Australia currently. The closest home-grown thing to the much heralded ‘yellow’ wines of Jura.
In his rousing 96 point review, Mike Bennie closes with this, “Superb. Tear in eye stuff. Go Australia.”
If you are a fan of this unique, nutty, salty and creamy wine style, it’s time to get excited. This is brilliant stuff.
What It Tastes Like
“Remarkably good here. Deep perfume reminiscent of sea spray, grilled nuts, fino sherry, mustard powder, savoury, minerally, brilliant. Power and concentration in the palate, more of the saline tang, brittle acidity, grilled nuts, apple and dried apple flavours. It’s magnificent if you like this ilk of wine, balanced, full, flavoursome, intense and refreshing at once. Superb. Tear in eye stuff. Go Australia.” - Mike Bennie (The Wine Front)
96 points. “This has been so anticipated by me I nearly wet my pants opening the carton. Then it got lost in a blind line up of ‘other whites’, but so easily found. Smelling it makes me want to take a big gulp of it. Crittenden are the only people in Australia really, truly, taking their bounty of savagnin for table wines, seriously, or, serious about the potential of appropriation of some of the great wines of Jura. Well, so far, or at least released something to market. The wine is matured for a long time, in barrel, under flor. Remarkably good here.
Deep perfume reminiscent of sea spray, grilled nuts, fino sherry, mustard powder, savoury, minerally, brilliant. Power and concentration in the palate, more of the saline tang, brittle acidity, grilled nuts, apple and dried apple flavours. It’s magnificent if you like this ilk of wine, balanced, full, flavoursome, intense and refreshing at once. Superb. Tear in eye stuff. Go Australia.”
- Mike Bennie (The Wine Front)
Defying convention and looking to the great Vin Jaune wines of the Jura region in France for inspiration this wine was whole bunched pressed to old French barriques before natural fermentation and malolactic conversion. Following ferment the barrels were moved to a well ventilated shed (away from the winery proper) where conditions were perfect for the gradual growth of the flor yeast on the surface of the increasingly ullaged barrels. Amazingly this wine has not been topped or received any sulphur additions for its entire 4 year ageing period, relying solely on the protective properties of the yeast voile to avoid excessive oxidation. Bottling took place in February of 2017 without any filtration, fining, stabilization or the addition of SO2.
Truly the product of an age old process the resultant wine displays many of the desired nutty aldehyde characters that can be expected after prolonged ageing under flor. While the ageing process plays a major role in its unique characters, it’s the Savagnin grape that truly defines this wine with a vibrant core of acidity and abundant varietal traits of preserved lemons both on the nose and palate.
Closure: Diam Cork
Bottle Size: 750ml
Drink Until: 2030
The Mornington Peninsula has become a go-to destination for lovers of modern Australian Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. Mornington’s perfect climatic conditions for producing these varieties has seen it become, in only a relatively short time, one of the premier regions for these varieties in the country. The wines are beautiful. The best examples are wines which show a restrained power. Both intensity and elegance. It’s a region which will continue to blossom and mature for many years to come.
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